Page 221 - 2018 National Home Improvement
P. 221

2018 National Home Improvement Estimator, All Rights Reserved                                   Page 179



            Outside rails are the hardest to get apart. That’s where the strength of the door is – or rather, was. Once
            you get the outside rails apart, the center panels and rails will usually fall right out.


            Usually, most of the glue in failing joints has turned to powder. In order for the new glue to form a tight
            bond in the joint, you’ll need to thoroughly clean out all the old, powdery glue. Wipe the visible powder
            away; then remove any remaining glue residue with a sanding disc. You may need to do a little hand
            sanding where the sanding disc can’t reach.

            Reassembling the Door
            When you’ve removed the old glue, reglue and reassemble the door. Lay the door flat and make sure
            that all the corners are straight and true. Once the glue has set, you won’t be able to straighten
            anything.  Use a good carpenter’s glue and bar clamps to hold the joints firmly in place. Be careful to
            wipe up any glue drips – once dry, these are hard to remove. Leave the door undisturbed overnight.

            If any joints were damaged in the disassembly process, add strength by driving screws through the
            joint. Use long, thin 8" to 10" wood screws. Working from the edge of the door, pre-drill a hole through
            the weak joint. The screw should be long enough to go through one rail and into the next. Dip the screw
            in glue and drive it snug. Since you’re driving from the edge of the door, the screw heads will only show
            when the door is open. Adding screws will substantially strengthen the door.

            Framing and Replacing Exterior Doors
            Entry doors usually measure 6'8" high by 3' wide by 1-3/4" thick. Side and rear doors should be at least
            2'6" wide. Rough opening height should be the height of the door plus 2-1/4" above the finish floor. The
            width of the rough opening should be the width of the door plus 2-1/2". For a 3' door opening, make the
            header out of two lengths of 2" x 6" set with two 16d nails driven into the studs on each side. If the stud
            space on each side of the door isn’t accessible, toenail the header to studs. Cripple studs (door bucks)
            support the header on each side of the opening.


            If you’re framing a new door opening, install a prehung door assembly complete with jamb, hinges and
            threshold. Prehung doors cost a little more than slab doors, but reduce the labor cost.
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