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HAUTE HORLOGERIE
Fine Watchmaking
complications. Richard Mille, quant à lui, ne présentait qu’une nouveauté mais non des moindres : la RM 53-01 Tourbillon Pablo Mac Donough. Née de la nouvelle rencontre avec l’un des meilleurs joueurs de polo, elle dévoile à travers l’inédit verre saphir feuilleté du boîtier en carbone TPT®, un calibre tourbillon suspendu, conçu pour résister aux chocs. Nous retiendrons également le vibrant hommage rendu par A. Lange & Söhne à Walter Lange, disparu lors du SIHH 2017, autour de la 1815 « Homage To Walter Lange », dont une pièce unique en acier.
Ryan Reynolds,
ambassadeur de
la marque, et Doutzen Kroes, nouvelle égérie, ont fait une entrée remarquée chez Piaget.
Polaris, la nouvelle collection élégante
et sportive de Jaeger-LeCoultre, est composée d’une montre automatique à trois aiguilles, d’un chronographe (photo), d’un chronographe worldtime ainsi que d’une Polaris Date et une Polaris Memovox.
their choice in the online shop. Winning over young people – might that be Vacheron Constantin's
new leitmotiv too in launching its more affordable Fiftysix® collection? Others are banking on existing creations: Parmigiani reviving its Kalpa collection with the iconic tonneau case, Montblanc adding two new models to its TimeWalker collection, Roger Dubuis introducing colourful versions of its Excalibur, and Cartier making over its mythic Santos. Certainly enough to attract the purists! Talking of which, Panerai's "Paneristi" will be thrilled at the Italian watch house growing its Luminor Due family with versions sporting
a refined dial, wearable on all wrists. Because women haven't missed out either! Audemars Piguet has brought out the first feminine version of its Royal Oak Concept, the utterly sublime Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon ablaze with diamonds. Van Cleef & Arpels turned heads with its Lady Arpels Planetarium, an expression of Poetic
Time. Others may well lose theirs on discovering the beauties in the Van Cleef & Arpels Garden, a bouquet of flower-watches, each more delicate than the last. Among these scintillating blooms we'll just mention the Pâquerette daisy watch that stole our hearts – we love every petal!
Technically minded
What would the SIHH be without its technical exploits? Piaget drew the crowds by setting a double record: its Altiplano Ultimate Automatic is the world's flattest automatic watch, just 4.3mm deep; and if that weren't enough, its Altiplano Ultimate Concept (not commercialised) beats
all records flat – and flat records – at only 2mm! Another house, another creation, namely Ulysse Nardin and its Freak Vision showcasing the innovations unveiled at the 2017 SIHH: the time indicated by means of a baguette movement with a "flying carrousel" rotating around its own axis. At Girard-Perregaux the Tri-Axial Tourbillon Minute Repeater illustrates the contemporary direction this manufacture has taken in the art of complications. As for Richard Mille, he only presented one new watch but it was more than enough! Born of the watchmaker's meeting
with a top polo player, the RM 53-01 Tourbillon Pablo Mac Donough reveals, through the unprecedented laminated sapphire crystal of its carbon TPT® case, a suspended tourbillon calibre designed to resist shocks. We must also mention A. Lange & Söhne's vibrant homage to Walter Lange, who passed away during the 2017 SIHH,
through the 1815 Homage To Walter Lange, including a one-off steel version.
18 | Mars 2018 - www.cotemagazine.com
Cartier a épaté la galerie avec la Révélation d’une panthère, revisitant le sablier, allégorie du temps qui passe. Cette prouesse est rendue possible
grâce à des microbilles d’or mobiles.
© D.R. / Cartier
© Diode SA - Denis Hayoun
© 2018 Getty Images