Page 92 - Hong_Kong_&_Macau's_Best_Restaurants_English_edition

HONG KONG RESTAURANTS
HIGH-END CHINESE

SUMMER PALACE T’ANG COURT TIN LUNG HEEN
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5/F, Island Shangri-La Hong Kong, 1/F and 2/F, The Langham, Hong 102/F, The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong, International Commerce Centre, 1
Pacific Place, Supreme Court Road, Kong, 8 Peking Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Austin Road West, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong
Admiralty, Hong Kong Hong Kong TEL: +852 2263 2270
TEL: +852 2820 8552 TEL: +852 2132 7898 www.ritzcarlton.com
www.shangri-la.com/island www.langhamhotels.com/
hongkong Tin Lung Heen provides a textbook lesson in Cantonese cuisine—freshness,
Dripping with opulent features in lightness and sometimes, barely-there flavour, which come together
red and gold, there’s no mistaking Occupying two storeys at the beautifully in its repertoire of classic roasted and barbecued meats, soups,
that Summer Palace, the Chinese Langham Hong Kong, T’ang Court stir fries and steamed dishes. Simmered Chinese vegetables retain a satisfying
restaurant at the Island Shangri-la, greets guests with its modest crispness, char siu is lean yet tender and a simple off-menu wok-fried spotted
is a fine dining establishment. entrance, accessed via a staircase garoupa fillet with soy let the quality ingredients shine. It’s what you would
It doesn’t just go on looks to reveal a spacious dining room. expect from such a rarefied establishment, perched more than 450 metres
though—the kitchen showcases This is the kind of place where above sea level, atop the Ritz-Carlton hotel. This means sky-high views through
true mastery of classic Cantonese privacy is highly valued, with double-height windows of western and northern Hong Kong. The flashy décor
cuisine. Expect the likes of tender, tables evenly spaced to create may not be to everyone’s taste, but it’s one to put on the list for date nights
juicy char siu, still warm from the enough room around each party. and celebrations. Service is well-oiled, with staff able to guide novices and the
oven, and crispy chicken that is just The menu, designed and finely knowledgeable alike through the menu. The extensive wine list leans heavily
as advertised, with faultless skin executed by executive chef towards renowned Italian and French estates, and red more than white. A
the colour of dark caramel. Dishes Kwong Wai-keung, is typical of a selection of premium Chinese teas is available for non-drinkers.
such as deep-fried shrimp toast traditional Cantonese restaurant—
are a delicious throwback that the difference being that the chef
could do without the westernised is au fait with both preserving YAN TOH HEEN
touch of black truffle. The chilled culinary traditions and staying up
sago cream with mango juice and to date with contemporary twists 10 9 10 10
pomelo is one of the creamiest that are neither contrived nor ill-
we’ve ever tasted. Surprisingly for fitting. T’ang Court continues Lower Level, InterContinental Hong
a restaurant of this calibre, service to impress with individual show Kong, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha
can be patchy, especially when it stoppers such as baked stuffed Tsui, Hong Kong
comes to wine, although the wine crab, and iconic dishes including TEL: +852 2313 2323
list itself has a decent geographical its barbecue pork. The latter is www.hongkong-ic.
range. For oenophiles with deep leaner than most, but the sweet Tin Lung Heen intercontinental.com/en
pockets, there is a special selection glaze clings onto each morsel,
provides a
by Robert Parker of 98-100-point forming just the right amount of For that postcard-perfect view
wines, and diners can request the crust on top. Meanwhile, sautéed textbook lesson in of Victoria Harbour, being on
list from the hotel’s fine dining prawns and crab roe with golden Kowloon side is a must, and there
Cantonese cuisine
French restaurant, Petrus. fried pork and crabmeat puffs are few better places to be than
However, despite the combines two Cantonese classics at the waterfront location where
excellent wines it would into one. Several of T’ang Court’s InterContinental Hong Kong stands.
have been nice to also notable dishes can be served The hotel’s Chinese restaurant is on
see a premium in individual portions. With fine, the lower level, giving you a front-
tea selection personal service and excellent row, sea-level view of the harbour.
to go with execution of Cantonese cuisine, The food at Yan Toh Heen is just
the refined T’ang Court is recommended for as, if not more, exciting as the
dishes. both visitors and locals alike. panorama. Their focus is refined
Cantonese cuisine, however it
does surprise us that some basics,
like char siu (barbecued pork),
are not always particularly well
executed. Instead—even though
it’s not Cantonese —be sure to pre-
order the Peking duck, served with a
number of innovative condiments
rarely found in other restaurants.
A deceptively simple off-menu
wok-fried spotted garoupa fillet
with soy and spring onion let the
quality of the ingredients speak for
themselves. Many dishes can be
ordered as half portions, making
it easier for a couple to sample
a greater variety of dishes To go
with the food, wine and tea menus
are both extensive, with novel tea
blends such as mandarin zest pu’er.
A popular restaurant with locals
Tin Lung Heen’s opulent and visitors alike, staff numbers
interiors are matched are adequate – it’s always easy to
with sky-high views get someone’s attention, and they
answer all queries with confidence.

90 | T .DINING 2018