Page 96 - Hong_Kong_&_Macau's_Best_Restaurants_English_edition

HONG KONG RESTAURANTS
FR ENCH

GADDI’S LE 39V L’ATELIER DE JOËL ROBUCHON
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1/F, The Peninsula Hong Kong, Shop A, 101/F, International Shop 401, 4/F, The Landmark Atrium,
Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Road, 15 Queen’s Road Central, Central, Hong Kong
Hong Kong Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2166 9000
TEL: +852 2696 6763 TEL: +852 2977 5266 www.robuchon.hk
www.peninsula.com/gaddis www.jcgroup.hk
This venerable Central institution remains modishly iconic, with its
More than 60 years after The restaurant business can be signature black and red interiors and impressive open kitchen with
Gaddi’s first opened its doors, cut throat in Hong Kong, but Le surrounding bar seating. The Robuchon name goes some way still, and
they continue to serve up an 39V has chosen the best vantage the venue is as busy as ever; good luck getting a reservation on a Friday
unparalleled French fine dining point to stand out among its lunchtime, when it seems the majority of Landmark’s corporate hawks
experience. Interiors are luxurious competitors. The first global descend to loosen their ties over premium Burgundy from the superlative
with chandeliers and crisp white offshoot of the Michelin-starred wine list and multiple courses of contemporary French delights. The menu
linen cloths lining the tables. There Parisian fine dining institution of is extensive, frequently changing and delightfully flexible, encouraging
is always a sense of occasion the same name, Le39V by French diners to build their own tasting menu. You might enjoy crisp beetroot and
when dining at Gaddi’s; at night, chef Frederic Vardon is perched on apple salad served with a green mustard sorbet, which is devastatingly
a live band provides soft tunes the 101th floor of the International beautiful; or a luxuriously silky cepe mushroom velouté lengthened with
to enjoy with your meal. Servers Commerce Centre, and offers jasmine rice cream and studded with nubs of Iberico ham. The bread
are friendly and extremely unparalleled views over Hong basket is epic, the buttery potato mash is legendary, and the wines a
knowledgeable of the menu, with Kong island and Victoria harbour. oenophile’s dream. Yes, Robuchon has still got it.
a strong attention to detail. The Food-wise, the seafood-rich menu
well-seasoned creamy lobster is a nod to Vardon’s Normandy
soup is a favourite here, which is roots, and signatures such as PETRUS
served with a generous portion of monkfish with a trio of shellfish
sliced poached lobster. The pan- and ‘Dieppoise’ sauce and Nicoise- 9 9 9 9
fried Japanese amadai is equally style red mullet are executed with
satisfying with its meatiness careful finesse under the watchful 56/F, Island Shangri-La Hong Kong,
and crispy skin that provides eye of Nicolas Raynal. Mains such Pacific Place, Supreme Court Road,
contrasting textures. The roasted as oven-grilled macaroni and Admiralty, Hong Kong
Pyrenean lamb is beautifully roasted lamb and veal veer on At Petrus, premium TEL: +852 2820 8590
presented; the meat is cooked the heavy side, so make it a point www.shangri-la.com/island
ingredients and
to the correct doneness without to save room for dessert—largely
any gamey characteristics. The classic French confections such deft technique are In Hong Kong’s fast and fickle dining
impressive wine tome is not to be as Paris Brest and Religieuse scene, it’s easy to overlook the
missed; if you’re having trouble given contemporary makeovers. more important classics, the places that have been
selecting the perfect bottle to go What the cheese trolley lacks in serving exemplary food for years.
than fashion
with your meal, the sommelier will quantity, it makes up for in quality, Among these is Restaurant Petrus,
happily study your ordered dishes and there’s a very studied wine list or trickery a hushed, tiered and chandeliered
before making recommendations. to quaff it down with. The open fine diner with crisp white
While the Gaddi’s Band provides kitchen and closely set tables also tablecloths, damask upholstery,
appreciated live music during means that you get to overhear and stunning views of Victoria
dinner sessions, it may be best loud guffaws from neighbouring Harbour. It’s new chef de cuisine
enjoyed at a table in the opposite diners and casual banter from the Ricardo Chaneton’s assured
side of the room, so as not to kitchen team, which can be a be cooking, however, that deserves
disturb conversation. rather jarring on a quiet date night. real attention. Live blue lobster is
gently poached so the tail remains
springy and succulent. Roasted
Aveyron lamb rack arrives a perfect
shade of pink, a thin layer of fat
adding indulgent depth of flavour
to the tender meat. Here, premium
ingredients and deft technique
are more important than fashion
or trickery so that plump and briny
Daniel Sorlut La Speciale oysters
are served natural with lemon
or on a refreshing granny smith
apple, cucumber and lime jelly. The
signature and surprise menus are
great value, with the same premium
ingredients used as on the à la
carte menu. The extensive wine
list is recognised as among Hong
Kong’s best, including dozens of
vintages of the namesake Petrus,
and use of a Coravin dispensing
Gaddi’s dining room may system allows for fine and rare
be traditional, but the wines to be sold by the glass.
cuisine is contemporary Service is attentive, if a bit formal,
and expected of this institution.

94 | T .DINING 2018