Page 25 - Taste_and_Travel_International

NEW BRUNSWICK DESTINATIONS

SLOW FOOD CANADA’S SUMMIT, APTLY ENTITLED
Eating Heritage, was a perfect jumping off point for me to not CANADA
only get to know the culinary leaders of the city and environs
but also an opportunity to once again dive into this region of
New Brunswick with a healthy appetite. RIAN CASTILLO
Little Louis’ Oyster Bar dedicates its menu to stylishly ))%Ũ
celebrating the food life of the region. Tucked up a set of it
stairs on the second floor, this warm and inviting dining room SERVES 4
is absolute proof that a climb doesn’t keep hungry (and wise) Little Louis’
diners away. There you’ll find a wine list worthy of the Wine
Spectator Award of Excellence and a chef who could be at Rockefeller Oysters
home in any fine restaurant in the nation. Little Louis’ is
named in honour of Louis Joseph Robichaud (1925 — 2005), Ũ Ũ Ũ." Ũ #( -.Ũ#(!, # (.-Ũ 1Ũ
who served as Premier of New Brunswick from 1960 to 1970. ,/(-1# %Ũ" -Ũ.)Ũ)ff ,ŨlŨ)3-. ,-VŨ -#(." Ũ ( Ũ
He was a short, apparently memorable, man. )'' Ũ Ũ " '*Ũ ), VŨ."#-Ũ & --# Ũ #-"Ũ#-Ũ Ũ
Chef Pierre Richard was born and raised in Moncton where
he learned to love great food in his mother’s kitchen and in 0)/,#. Ũ .Ũ #..& Ũ )/#-cUŨ
her garden.
Blue Pearl 1 SHUCK the oysters and put
Pierre’s menus reflect his training, his joy of great flavours
Oysters 24 the meat in a small strainer
and his pride of place. There are copious amounts of fresh
oysters and for those who prefer them cooked, he tops them Unsalted saving the juices. In a separate
Butter 1 Tbs container save the bottom
with ‘Rockefeller’ herbs, spinach, a bit of double-smoked
bacon, a sprinkle of anise-scented Pastis. When they’re in Shallot finely shells, you will need them for
season, he’ll marinate the tiniest fillets of smelt (eperlan) and minced, 2 Tbs reassembly for cooking and
serving.
serve them atop of the greens he buys at the Dieppe Market. Fennel Bulb
There may be seared foie gras with apple and cranberry and finely minced, 2 IN a 12-inch pan heat the butter.
2 Tbs
balsamic, or he may poach Atlantic halibut in olive oil, a Stir in the shallots, fennel and
timeless technique that ensures a perfectly cooked fish, then Celery finely celery and sauté gently till
serve it with squid ink tagliatelle, almond butter, sweet chilies minced, 2 Tbs translucent. Deglaze the pan
and tangy gremolata. His pappardelle are handmade and Fils du Roy with oyster jus and Absinthe.
topped with butter-poached lobster. One dish we loved on a Courailleuse 3 ADD the cream to the pan and
recent visit was his version of the ,(+5!ƫ— a small stack of Absinthe let reduce, stirring constantly,
buckwheat pancakes topped with sturgeon mousse and a ½ Tbs until it thickens enough to
generous spoonful of Acadian caviar. 35% Cream drape the back of a spoon.
The tagline of Manuka, a colourful restaurant close to 1 cup
downtown Moncton, is ‘cuisine instinctive.’ As the seasons Spinach finely 4 ADD the parsley, spinach,
flow by week by week, Chef Camille Pluymackers allows her minced, 2 Tbs lemon juice and tobasco while
menus to reflect nuances that more static menus can rarely Parsley finely stirring the sauce.
achieve. If mussels are perfect, she’ll steam them in beer and minced, 2 Tbs 5 ADD the oyster meat to the
finish them with bacon and blue cheese. If she can get her
Fresh Lemon sauce just to warm up!
hands on some of the sweet north Atlantic shrimp from Juice ½ Tbs
Matane, they may end up in a curry bowl with local veggies. 6 TO assemble, lay out all the
Tabasco
Because her personal roots are in Belgium, Belgian fries are bottom oyster shells on a
a couple
always on the menu, with homemade mayonnaise. Like many of drops cooking tray. Fill them with
of the region’s chefs she buys her potatoes from Les Digues, a oyster meat and its sauce,
La Bergerie
vendor at the Dieppe Market. Twice a month she and her cover each oyster with a thinly
aux 4 Vents
team pull out all the stops and do a full-on Chef’s Table where Tomme de slice of Tomme De Champ Dore
they can expand the culinary horizons of their guests, Champ Dore and broil them in the oven till
perhaps including some of the beers that Camille’s husband/ one wheel slightly golden brown.
partner André is aging in their cool basement.

JANUARY–MARCH 20185 TASTE;5TRAVEL INTERNATIONAL 23