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NEW BRUNSWICK         DESTINATIONS


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                                                                                     SERVES 6–8
                                                                    Chartreuse Riviera Style

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          Sackville’s a thriving university city and the home of massive
        wetlands and of twin restaurants, Coy Wolf Bistro and Black
        Duck Café. Finding restaurants of this calibre in relatively rural   Pork Shoulder 2 lbs  1  GRIND the pork in either a
        New Brunswick is an utter joy. Chef Alan Barbour is at the   Celery Stalks 2, chopped  meat grinder or food processor,
        stoves and Sarah Evans, his wife and partner, is one of the most   Green Onions     then add the chopped
        dedicated foragers I’ve met. It’s an ultimately seasonal dining   1 bundle, chopped  vegetables, herbs and chicken
        experience and if you’re there in the spring as I was, begin with   Flat-Leaf Parsley    livers. Process to combine.
        the cocktail Sarah names the ‘Seaside Negroni,’ which includes   1 bundle, chopped   2  TRANSFER to a bowl and add
        pickled samphire greens that she’s harvested. Hop shoots,                           the bread crumbs. Mix well
        snipped from the courtyard, are a most special springtime   Garlic 3 cloves, chopped  while adding salt and lots of
        treat, wrapped in paper-thin slices of house-cured stesa bacon.   Chicken Livers 8 oz  freshly ground pepper. Heat
        The pencil-shaped bundle is served with yarrow leaves and   Panko or Dry            a pan and fry a small sample
        steamed wild mustard. Sarah makes the raspberry vinegar to   Breadcrumbs 1 cup      of the pork mixture, cooking
        top the fat Brunswick oysters.                            Tarragon, Thyme, Basil    well. Taste and adjust the salt
          The PEI mussels filled the shells that Barbour steamed in   to taste               and spices to your liking. Stuff
        Sarah’s homemade chokecherry wine and heaped with ‘frites.’                         the Swiss chard leaves and
        The sauce was enriched with cream and may have been the   Fresh Swiss    û          steam the vegetable packages.
                                                                  Chard Leaves
        most delicious rendition of this dish I’ve ever tasted. Lobster                     When ready to serve, spoon
        noisette was spring in a bowl… sweet local bay lobster, curled   Pine Nuts, Black Olives,   the reduced stock over the
                                                                  Goat Cheese to garnish
        fiddlehead fronds, browned bits of home-cured pork and small                         packages.
        strips of Irish Moss, a seaweed that is too rarely used on   Chicken Stock as needed,
        regional menus.                                           reduced to a glaze      3  GARNISH with pine nuts, black
          Cheeses from the province and also Nova Scotia were, for                          olives and a bit of goat cheese.
        me, a perfect ending but the crème brulée is a favourite
        amongst the regulars. The motto of this creative pair is simply   ûŗ  )/Ũ  (Ũ &-)Ũ/- Ũ Ũ & ( "  Ũ&   Ũ) Ũ     ! Ũ),Ũ (3Ũ0 ! .  & Ũ
        “Our food tells our story” and from the ever changing menu, it   b0 -- &cŨ-/ "Ũ -Ũ'#(#Ũ4/  "#(#-U
        certainly does.   ŗ

                                                                             JANUARY–MARCH 20185 TASTE;5TRAVEL INTERNATIONAL  27
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