Page 63 - Taste_and_Travel_International

TASTES OF HOI AN DESTINATIONS

sink your teeth into the signature sarnie and kick back with a couple of local
Larue beers. But locals will tell you that the best Bánh Mi are made by streetside
vendors. If you’re intent on seeking out the best of the best, you’ll need to be up VIETNAM
early to track down one of the more popular carts before they sell out, usually by
mid-morning.
I visited Hoi An in September, the sweltering final month before the rainy
season. With temperatures in the forties, sightseeing on foot demanded
commitment and frequent hydration. I developed an addiction iced Vietnamese
coffee, which comes either black (super strong and bitter) or white (delicious but
overly sweet). My solution after trial and error — order both and drink
simultaneously.
There’s nothing touristy about the central market in Hoi An, where ladies in
))%Ũ
conical hats sell fruit, vegetables, spices and all manner of household goods in a it
long covered market hall. In the surrounding streets simple sidewalk eateries
SERVES 2–4
cater to local residents. I joined a group sitting on low plastic stools where a
woman was making Bánh Xèo — riceflour crêpes. She nodded as I sat down then Vietnamese
continued juggling little iron pans over an open flame. She slicked each pan with Julienne Salad
oil and dropped in a few shrimp, letting them sizzle until they turned pink, then
swirled in a thin layer of coconut/riceflour batter, adding a handful of spring
(Ũ 0 ( VŨ."#-Ũ, , -"#(!VŨ" &."3Ũ
onions and beansprouts before covering the pan with a little domed lid like a hat.
- & Ũ#-Ũ' Ũ ,)'Ũ!, (Ũ* * 3 Ũ),Ũ
When the crêpes were done, she rolled them up in ricepaper with some lettuce
and fresh herbs and set them down before us on plate. Bottles of nuoc cham and ' (!)UŨ #( Ũ( #." ,Ũ#-Ũ -3Ũ.)Ũ #( Ũ
chili sauce for seasoning were passed down the line as we ate. )/.-# Ũ -# VŨ Ũ/- Ũ4/ "#(#Ũ ( Ũ Ũ
Hoi An is at its most appealing at night when the streets are lit with lanterns, &#' Ũ$/# Ũ.)Ũ." Ũ , --#(!Ũ.)Ũ'#'# Ũ." Ũ
the air is balmy and food carts set up shop along the riverfront promenade # #.3Ũ) Ũ." Ũ/(,#* Ũ ,/#.-UŨ (& --Ũ3)/,Ũ
among the mustard-coloured merchant’s houses and godowns, issuing clouds of
%(# Ũ-%#&&-Ũ , Ũ #( &3Ũ")( VŨ3)/c&&Ũ( Ũ Ũ
smoke and savoury aromas. Tourists and locals mingle, eating, drinking, strolling,
' ( )&#( Ũ),Ũ$/&# (( Ũ* & ,Ũ.)Ũ*, *Ũ." Ũ
enjoying the evening. If you can, time your visit for the full moon, when the
whole town turns out to celebrate the Lantern Festival with music, dance, street 0 ! . & -U
bazaars and a flotilla of candle-lit lanterns drifting down the river.
For a final taste of Hoi An, I headed to the beach. Twenty-five (hot) minutes & Roasted Peanuts
½ cup, chopped
on a bicycle, or ten cooler ones by taxi, will take you along a road fringed by rice Carrot 1 large,
paddies to An Bang Beach and a row of seafood shacks overlooking the surf. You peeled and Fried Asian
can rent a towel and a beach chair if you want to swim, or you can just hang out julienned Shallots ¼ cup
and enjoy the spectacular view over a long and lazy lunch of superbly fresh
Zucchini 1 large,
seafood. Fish, shrimp, clams, calamari, crab, you name it, simply prepared over julienned , --#(!
aromatic charcoal, and made magical with coconut, chilies, lime, fresh herbs and
Jicama 1, peeled Cider Vinegar
nuoc cham — the essential tastes of Vietnam. ŗ 4 Tbs
and julienned
Fresh Mint leaves Fish Sauce 4 Tbs
TASTE; TRAVEL )(.,# /.),ŗ ) ŗ 1, ( ŗ #-ŗ ŗ ,#(%#(!ŗ' (ŗ only, a handful Runny Honey 1 Tbs
1")ŗ &-)ŗ&#% -ŗ.)ŗ .Ą Fresh Thai Basil or Garlic 1 clove,
Sweet Basil leaves finely chopped
only, a handful
Bird’s Eye Chili
Fresh Cilantro 1, finely chopped
leaves only,
Bazar Café and Restaurant Ba Le Well Restaurant
&# %Ũ
it 36 Tran Phu, Minh An, Tp. 45/51 Tran Hung Dao, Minh An, a handful
Hoi An Thành pho Hoi An
1 TOSS everything with the dressing
Bánh Mi Phuong Tuyet Restaurant
2B Phan Châu Trinh, Cãm Châu, Lo 3 An Bang, Đien Biên Phu except the peanuts and fried shallots.
Hoi An Add these as a garnish to each serving.

JANUARY–MARCH 20185 TASTE;5TRAVEL INTERNATIONAL 61