Page 73 - Taste_and_Travel_International
P. 73

LETTERS FROM THE EDGE














                                                                           Established restaurants on the islands are    TAIWAN
                                                                        generally multi-generational family businesses
                                                                        with a no-frills sensibility, while trendier spots
                                                                        are operated by young, entrepreneurial
                                                                        Taiwanese integrating modern flair from their
                       Y  .-/Ũ#-Ũ)( Ũ) Ũ." Ũ')-.Ũ                       global travels with traditional preparations.
                                                                        Several places are outfitted with “lazy Susan”
                          - , ( Ũ ( Ũ.)/,#-.j ,  Ũ                      tables covered with at least a half dozen large
                                                                        platters and hot pots of fish, squid, oysters, and
                               ),( ,-Ũ) Ũ -# Y                          vegetables that grow in abundance in or near
                                                                        sea water.
                                                                        More to Love in Penghu
                                                                        A double heart-shaped fishing weir built on
                                                                        Panghu’s “South Sea” island of Qimei ( $!!ġ
                                                                        ) 5) centuries ago is the islands’ defining
                                                                        landmark. Although it is a favourite photo spot,
         PHOTOS THIS SPREAD CLOCKWISE
         FROM TOP LEFT Old Town                                         the fish trap’s romantic design reflects the
         Penghu; A village on                                           resilience of a way of life.
         Matsu; Thorn Bird                                                 Save for garlic, pepper and a “Venus” spice
         Coffee owner; Rainbow                                          with a similar tang and colour to paprika,
         Bridge; Oyster farm on                                         one will not find fancy sauces, garnishes or
         Penghu; Fresh Penghu                                           elaborate presentations. In Magong City, fish
         prawns; Sorghum                                                and seafood are the stars at almost every
         wine, Qimei’s iconic
         weir; Breaded chicken                                          restaurant, from the Four Points Sheraton
         skewers; Penghu market                                         Penghu banquet to Cauliflower Old Memory
         vendor; Sorghum wine                                           Restaurant, which looks like it could be a
         tasting room; Sashimi                                          grandmother’s dining room. There are many
         platter; Sticky Penghu                                         fried indulgences, such as cuttlefish balls
         ribs; Military tunnel on                                       and fried squid, as well as some east-west
         Matsu; Penghu crawfish.                                        fusion items like lobster club sandwiches.
                                                                            Near Magong’s airport, one can find Zuoli
                                                                        Lane, where fish and oysters of different sizes
                                                                        are sorted and prepped to be sun-dried on
                                                                        bamboo mats. The fruits of the workers’ labour
                                                                        not only find their way to the mainland but also
                                                                        shops like the one at the Penghu Visitor’s Center
                                                                        and several boutiques on Central Street in the
                                                                        “old city.” The pungent fish are soon
                                                                        transformed into “XO” sauces and other
                                                                        condiments made with squid, oysters, scallops
                                                                        and tiny salty fish, as well as dried fish worked
                     RAY YU
                                                                        into a variety of dishes from stir fries and
                                                                        $1¬#1¶ (hot pot) to  $>+"H* or  $>+)%H* (fried
                                                                        rice or noodle dishes).
                                                                           Peanuts, sponge gourds, angled loofah,
                                                                        pumpkin and other savoury melons we enjoy in



                                                                             JANUARY–MARCH 20185 TASTE;5TRAVEL INTERNATIONAL  71
   68   69   70   71   72   73   74   75   76   77   78