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THE MAGIC OF     reproaches the responsible citizen of the middle   and as personae providing sources of gossip and
                          DANDYISM RESIDES      class. Dandyism is a form of Romanticism. Con-  scandal. The magic of dandyism resides in the in-
                           IN THE INTERPLAY     trary to what many thoughtless people seem to   terplay between the dandy’s temperament and
                                  BETWEEN       believe, dandyism is not even an excessive delight   his appearance. Yet it is not a question of simple
                               THE DANDY’S      in clothes and material elegance. For the perfect   harmony, for one dandy may combine severe
                         TEMPERAMENT AND        dandy, these things are no more than the symbol   dress with a jocular demeanor, while another me-
                           HIS APPEARANCE.
                                                of the aristocratic superiority of mind. The linkage   shes cold aloofness with colorful and audacious
                                                of clothing with political protest had become a   dress. Nevertheless, what follows is an attempt to
                                                particularly English characteristic during the 18th   describe the indescribable, to unravel the formu-
                                                century. Given these connotations, dandyism can   la of dandyism’s certain something. To do so we
                                                be seen as a political protest against the levelling   must bear in mind that dandyism is sometimes
                                                of egalitarian principles, often including nostalgic   referred to as an affectation. In Regency England,
                                                adherence to feudal or pre-industrial values, such   dandyism became a fashionable pose when men
                                                as the ideals of “the perfect gentleman” or “the au-  wished to imitate Brummell without having either
                                                tonomous aristocrat”. Paradoxically, the dandy re-  his sartorial originality or his particular tempera-
                                                quired an audience, as Susann Schmid observed   ment. And though Brummell surely exploited his
                                                in examining the “successfully marketed lives” of   temperament for effect in fashionable society, it
                                                Oscar Wilde and Lord Byron, who exemplify the   was already present when he was a lad at Eton
                                                dandy’s roles in the public sphere, both as writers   and distinguished himself by “the most bold and




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