Page 54 - Duane Raleigh - Knots Ropes for Climbers
P. 54
Tying off lead or rappel rope to free your hands
Mariner Knot
The Mariner Knot, illustrated on page 56, is a complex, exotic knot that, like the Mule Knot and
Munter Mule, is releasable when under load. Unlike the Mule and Munter Mule, however, you do not
tie the Mariner Knot in the lead or rappel rope. Rather, you take a loop of 9/16-inch webbing and
wind this around a carabiner, and then around the loop itself. The common use of the Mariner Knot is
to transfer the load from your belay device to an independent anchor. The Mariner Knot loosens and
slips when it isn't weighted; keep an eye on it.
Common Use
Transferring weight from one anchor to another
Page 56
Mariner Knot.
Garda Hart Knot
As sure as you'll wind up on a climb without a belay device, you'll also end up without a pulley but
needing to haul a heavy pack or assist a struggling partner up a pitch. The Garda Hart, a one-
directional sliding knot, is tailor-made for the situation. To rig, clip two similar carabiners (two
ovals, for example) to a sling that runs through your belay anchor.
Clip and weave the rope through the carabiners as shown. Be careful to orient the
