Page 51 - Duane Raleigh - Knots Ropes for Climbers

The Carabiner Wrap doesn't need much explaining, and common sense will tell you that you can add
wraps to increase friction or remove wraps to decrease friction. Make sure the wraps go on the
carabiner's solid spine, use a locking carabiner if available, and don't let the knot twist up into itself
or invert.

Common Use

Emergency rappel

Page 52

Mule Knot

The Mule Knot is a friction knot that you can release while it's under load, although it can take some
fiddling to do so. It's one of those special knots you'll rarely use but will praise when you do.

Use the Mule Knot to tie off your belay device and free your hands, as you'll need to do when the
leader has fallen and is injured, and you need both hands to facilitate a rescue.

In everyday situations, you can use the Mule Knot to temporarily tie off the belay and pass up gear to
the leader, eat, tend to calls of nature, and so on. In all situations, clip a carabiner through the Mule
Knot to prevent it from accidentally slipping. If you don't have a carabiner, use the standing portion of
the Mule Knot to tie an Overhand backup around the active (loaded) side of the rope. Also, don't
forget to pass the initial loop of the Mule Knot through your belay carabiner.

To release the Mule Knot, unclip the backup carabiner or untie the backup Overhand, and pull on the

standing (unloaded) side of the knot.

Common Use

Tying off lead rope to free your hands