Page 46 - Duane Raleigh - Knots Ropes for Climbers
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Page 47
Klemheist.
Klemheist
When you wrap a loop of cord around the rope, you get the Klemheist. This variation on the Prusik
works similarly but is easier to slide up the rope and thus is the preferred knot for lengthy ascents.
Add more wraps to generate more friction, as you do with the Prusik.
Unlike the Prusik, the Klemheist grips best when you load it straight down. When you have a diagonal
or horizontal rope to cross, the Prusik is the safer knot. You can tie a Klemheist in webbing as well as
cord, but webbing generally doesn't grip as well.
Common Use
Ascending single and double rope
