Page 44 - Duane Raleigh - Knots Ropes for Climbers

Before a Swiss bird scientist invented mechanical ascenders in the 1960s, climbers used the Prusik
Knot to ascend fixed ropes. This variation on the Girth Hitch grips the rope like a clenched fist when
you weight it. Unweight the knot, and you can easily slide it up the rope. Use two Prusiks and you can
alternate weighting and unweighting and shimmy up a rope. On the first ascent of El Capitan's Nose in

1958, Warren Harding and team fixed 2,000 feet of rope and prusiked all of it.

Today, the Prusik still has its uses, and in certain situations it's the best tool for the job.

It's, for example, the safest way to ape across a horizontally or diagonally strung rope, where
mechanical ascenders can torque and pop off. Also, the Prusik is a common rappel backup and is a
godsend in emergency situations, such as when you fall below an

overhang and are unable to get back on the rock. In such cases, you can fashion Prusiks from most any
sling, cord, even shoestring (thinking climbers carry a couple Prusik loops on their racks to handle
such situations) and simply climb up the rope.

Page 46

Rappel with a Prusik as a backup.

The best Prusik is made from durable, 5- or 6-millimeter perlon cord tied in 1-foot loops and secured
with a Double Fisherman's. Three to four wraps around the rope will usually give the best hold. Add