Page 39 - Duane Raleigh - Knots Ropes for Climbers

the only anchor knot that you can readily adjust and so get the anchors closer to equalized.

The drawbacks to the Clove Hitch are that it can slip, loosen, and creep up the carabiner and open its
gate. Used improperly, or if it is allowed to go unsupervised, the knot is exceedingly dangerous. Do
not use it in situations where it's the lone anchor knot. (I use the Clove Hitch as a secondary knot to
back up anchors tied in with the Figure Eight on a Bight.) And do not tie it in the end of a rope, lest it

slip and the tail pull through.

When you do use the Clove Hitch, arrange it so the loaded strand is next to the carabiner's spine. Go
the other way and the knot will load the carabiner's gate side, which is far weaker than the spine.
Ideally, you would always use a locking carabiner with the Clove Hitch. Before you trust yourself to
the Clove Hitch, pull both of its ends as hard as you can to set the knot.

A final use for the Clove Hitch will interest the aid climber who needs to tie off a partly driven piton
or a bolt missing its hanger. For this use, tie the Clove Hitch in a webbing tie-off loop, slip the loop
over the piton or bolt so its loaded strand will be against the rock, and cinch up.

Common Use s

Joining rope to anchors

Tying off protruding pitons, bolts, and ice screws