Page 34 - Duane Raleigh - Knots Ropes for Climbers
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Butterfly Knot.
Butterfly Knot
Like canned food and satellite TV, this knot originated in war, where it was used to join man to rope
so he could drag cannons through bogs. In peacetime, this Butterfly Knot, or Lineman's Loop, is useful
to the climber wishing to anchor himself to the middle of the rope, a common practice in glacier
travel. To do so, clip yourself to the knot with two carabiners that have their gates reversed and
opposed. In the ideal scenario, one of the carabiners will be locking. You may also use this knot to tie
out a damaged section of rope; just know that the knot won't slide through your protection or rappel
device.
Common Use s
Middleman's tie-in knot
Tying out damaged section of rope
