Page 35 - Duane Raleigh - Knots Ropes for Climbers

Page 35

Square Fisherman's

The maxim of rope strength states that the strength of a knot depends on the ease of its curves. In

simpler terms, all this really means is that knots with sharp turns are weaker than those that make
gradual bends. That said, the Square Knot, which bends a sharp 45

degrees not once but four times, is about the weakest knot you can tie. I've heard that the Square Knot
retains only 45 percent of a rope's strength, whereas other knots such as the Double Bowline retain 75
percent. Besides being hopelessly weak, the Square Knot is also easy to tie wrong. Reverse one of
the crossing passes, and the knot will hold just long enough to get you into troubleor killed.

You would think, then, that the Square Knot's crippling flaws would preclude it from climbing. They
do, but a variation, the Square Fisherman's, works well to join two rappel lines. Used for this
purpose, the knot is easy to untie when you're finished, and it's safe provided you leave long tails and

anchor these with a Double Fisherman's backup. Do not use the Square Knot without the backup
knots.

Common Use

Joining rappel ropes

Square Knot with backup.