Page 45 - Duane Raleigh - Knots Ropes for Climbers

wraps if the knot slips. In a pinch, I've made Prusiks from almost anything, from 1-inch webbing to 9-
millimeter rope. All work to some degree, but you do have to experiment with the number of wraps to
make the Prusik grip properly. When

you are prusiking double ropes, wrap both Prusiks around both ropes rather than put one Prusik on
each rope.

Regardless of what material you use for the Prusik, dress it evenly, weight it slowly, and loosen it

well before you slide it up the rope. All Prusiks have a finite life and will eventually burn through
(small cord is less durable than the fat stuff), so inspect them regularly.

If you use the Prusik to back up a rappel, make sure the sling that attaches the Prusik to the harness is
short and always within easy reach. At least one climber has died because his sling was too long and
locked up out of reach, stranding him on rappel.

Common Use s

Ascending single or double rope

Rappeling backup

Secondary Use s

Tying off belay

Improvising hauling system