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a14 people & arts
Tuesday 3 November 2020
Chef Marcus Samuelsson celebrates the variety of Black food
By MARK KENNEDY Bernardin. And they'll learn says.
AP Entertainment Writer how Mashama Bailey is re- The book took four years to
NEW YORK (AP) — If any- inventing traditional South- make and had to grapple
one asks chef Marcus Sam- ern dishes. with the pandemic and the
uelsson what African food "Our pasts are so unique Black Lives Matter move-
taste like, he has a ready and it's so important to ment. Samuelsson says in
answer: Have you ever had tell," says Samuelsson. "We his author's note that the ef-
barbeque? Rice? Collard needed to tell our very lay- fects of COVID-19 will stay
greens? Okra? Coffee? ered and beautiful, non- in the Black community for
"All of that food comes monolithic journey." longer than elsewhere and
from Africa, has its roots in Samuelsson notes that that the nation must also
Africa," says the Ethiopian many cookbooks cele- fight the virus of systemic
Swedish writer and restau- brate European and Asian racism. But he marvels at
rateur. "Everyone has had foods but hardly bring up the resiliency of the Black
African American dishes, Black dishes, meaning we community and says "Black
whether they know it or know more about ricotta food matters."
not." than ayib, the fresh cheese "We still will cook," he vows.
Samuelsson is hoping to of Ethiopia. "Black food has always
educate Americans and "This is America's past. So for been controversial be-
champion Black chefs in me, as much as we learn cause the way we were
"The Rise: Black Cooks and about Japan, as much as brought here to work, the
the Soul of American Food" we learn about Italy and food and the land. We
from Little, Brown and Com- Spain and so on, wouldn't it have always had to do it
pany's Voracious imprint. be great to learn about our through different lengths
The book has 150 recipes own food? This is America's and a different set of rules."
inspired by Black chefs, food," he says. Readers will learn how wide
writers and activists, and Samuelsson compares the and rich the food rooted in
includes profiles of 26. The food in the book to popu- Africa can be, from the use
recipes celebrate the leg- This cover image released by Voracious shows "Book Story: The lar music. He looks at New of venison to pine nut chut-
acy of Africa, the influence Rise: Black Cooks and the Soul of American Food," by Marcus Orleans and hears the influ- ney to roti. They'll learn that
of migration and integra- Samuelsson. The book has 150 recipes from two dozen top Black ence of France, Haiti, Af- benne seeds are a deli-
tion, and where cutting- chefs and includes profiles of each. rica and Spain — he hears cious alternative to sesame
edge Black chefs are going Associated Press jazz. Black food is no differ- seeds and make a vinai-
next. Osayi Endolyn and recipe Readers will learn how Los ent. grette sing.
"When I look at American development by Yewande Angeles-based chef Nye- "It comes from the conti- "Whether this is your first ex-
food and I look at the Black Komolafe — is a rich mix of sha Arrington's cooking nent first and then it lands perience making African-
experience, we've done stories and food, from citrus draws on family history from here. And then, whether inspired dishes or you're fa-
so much but almost got scallops with hibiscus tea Mississippi and South Korea. we went North or stayed in miliar with them, my hope
erased," says Samuelsson, to oxtail pepperpot with They'll learn it takes just 45 the South or went out West, is this book will spark an
the chef of Harlem's famed dumplings. As Samuelsson minutes to make Eric Ges- it's going to have a different interest — or continue one
Red Rooster. "There's never writes in the introduction: tel's chicken liver mousse journey — a different flavor — and you'll want to learn
been a better time to tell "This isn't an encyclopedia. with croissants, a dish in- profile to it — depending more about the people re-
those stories." It's a feast. And everyone's formed from his years cook- on who we met and who defining and celebrating
The book — with essays by invited." ing at the acclaimed Le we got together with," he this cuisine," said Endolyn.q
‘Borat’ star gives church $100K after member appears in film
Jeanise Jones, 62, thought prised by the donation, just she's simply relieved that
she had been recruited the amount, noting that "Tutar" was never in trouble.
by her place of worship, the money had been ear- Jones has not seen the
Ebenezer Missionary Bap- marked for community use, movie but she said one of
tist Church, in Oklahoma The Oklahoman reported. the film's producers called
City to mentor a teenager Scobey added that Cohen to check on her after it was
named "Tutar" who came knew the church is a com- released. Cohen reached
to the U.S. with her father munity hub where people out to her on Wednesday,
from a developing nation. gather for spiritual hope said Jones, who noted the
But Jones didn't find out and help. call was "enlightening."q
until the film was released The movie follows Borat
on Amazon Prime last week Sagdiyev, portrayed by Solution Sudoku
that "Tutar" was an actress Cohen, as he returns to
and the man — whom she America from Kazakhstan,
believed was the girl's fa- with his daughter portrayed
In this Wednesday, July 31, 2019 file photo, Sacha Baron Cohen ther — was actually Cohen. by Maria Bakalova, to offer
arrives at the 2019 Hollywood Foreign Press Association's Annual Rev. Derrick Scobey, the a "bribe" to American lead-
Grants Banquet at the Beverly Wilshire Beverly Hills, Calif. church's senior pastor, said ers. It is a sequel to "Borat,"
Associated Press Cohen made the donation which was released in 2006.
OKLAHOMA CITY (AP) — woman who believed she on Wednesday. Scobey After the latest film's debut,
Actor Sacha Baron Cohen, was taking part in a docu- added that he and other many on Twitter described
who stars in "Borat Subse- mentary but instead was church members also were Jones' character as the
quent Moviefilm," donated being featured in the moc- not aware of the movie. movie's hero, moral com-
$100,000 to the church of a kumentary comedy film. Scobey said he wasn't sur- pass and breakout star. But Puzzle on Page 13

