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a14   people & arts
                 Tuesday 3 November 2020
            Chef Marcus Samuelsson celebrates the variety of Black food




            By MARK KENNEDY                                                                        Bernardin. And they'll learn  says.
            AP Entertainment Writer                                                                how Mashama Bailey is re-    The book took four years to
            NEW  YORK  (AP)  —  If  any-                                                           inventing traditional South-  make and had to grapple
            one asks chef Marcus Sam-                                                              ern dishes.                  with the pandemic and the
            uelsson  what  African  food                                                           "Our  pasts  are  so  unique  Black  Lives  Matter  move-
            taste  like,  he  has  a  ready                                                        and  it's  so  important  to  ment.  Samuelsson  says  in
            answer: Have you ever had                                                              tell,"  says  Samuelsson.  "We  his author's note that the ef-
            barbeque?  Rice?  Collard                                                              needed to tell our very lay-  fects  of  COVID-19  will  stay
            greens? Okra? Coffee?                                                                  ered  and  beautiful,  non-  in the Black community for
            "All  of  that  food  comes                                                            monolithic journey."         longer than elsewhere and
            from Africa, has its roots in                                                          Samuelsson    notes   that  that  the  nation  must  also
            Africa,"  says  the  Ethiopian                                                         many    cookbooks    cele-   fight  the  virus  of  systemic
            Swedish  writer  and  restau-                                                          brate European and Asian  racism.  But  he  marvels  at
            rateur.  "Everyone  has  had                                                           foods  but  hardly  bring  up  the  resiliency  of  the  Black
            African  American  dishes,                                                             Black  dishes,  meaning  we  community and says "Black
            whether  they  know  it  or                                                            know  more  about  ricotta  food matters."
            not."                                                                                  than ayib, the fresh cheese  "We still will cook," he vows.
            Samuelsson  is  hoping  to                                                             of Ethiopia.                 "Black  food  has  always
            educate  Americans  and                                                                "This is America's past. So for  been   controversial   be-
            champion  Black  chefs  in                                                             me,  as  much  as  we  learn  cause  the  way  we  were
            "The Rise: Black Cooks and                                                             about  Japan,  as  much  as  brought  here  to  work,  the
            the Soul of American Food"                                                             we  learn  about  Italy  and  food  and  the  land.  We
            from Little, Brown and Com-                                                            Spain and so on, wouldn't it  have  always  had  to  do  it
            pany's Voracious imprint.                                                              be great to learn about our  through  different  lengths
            The  book  has  150  recipes                                                           own food? This is America's  and a different set of rules."
            inspired  by  Black  chefs,                                                            food," he says.              Readers will learn how wide
            writers  and  activists,  and                                                          Samuelsson  compares  the  and rich the food rooted in
            includes  profiles  of  26.  The                                                       food in the book to popu-    Africa can be, from the use
            recipes  celebrate  the  leg-  This cover image released by Voracious shows "Book Story: The   lar music. He looks at New  of venison to pine nut chut-
            acy of Africa, the influence   Rise: Black Cooks and the Soul of American Food," by Marcus   Orleans and hears the influ-  ney to roti. They'll learn that
            of  migration  and  integra-  Samuelsson. The book has 150 recipes from two dozen top Black   ence  of  France,  Haiti,  Af-  benne  seeds  are  a  deli-
            tion,  and  where  cutting-  chefs and includes profiles of each.                      rica and Spain — he hears  cious alternative to sesame
            edge Black chefs are going                                            Associated Press  jazz. Black food is no differ-  seeds  and  make  a  vinai-
            next.                        Osayi  Endolyn  and  recipe  Readers  will  learn  how  Los  ent.                      grette sing.
            "When  I  look  at  American  development by Yewande  Angeles-based  chef  Nye-        "It  comes  from  the  conti-  "Whether this is your first ex-
            food and I look at the Black  Komolafe — is a rich mix of  sha   Arrington's   cooking  nent  first  and  then  it  lands  perience  making  African-
            experience,  we've  done  stories and food, from citrus  draws on family history from  here.  And  then,  whether  inspired dishes or you're fa-
            so  much  but  almost  got  scallops  with  hibiscus  tea  Mississippi and South Korea.  we went North or stayed in  miliar  with  them,  my  hope
            erased,"  says  Samuelsson,  to  oxtail  pepperpot  with  They'll  learn  it  takes  just  45  the South or went out West,  is  this  book  will  spark  an
            the chef of Harlem's famed  dumplings.  As  Samuelsson  minutes  to  make  Eric  Ges-  it's going to have a different  interest — or continue one
            Red Rooster. "There's never  writes  in  the  introduction:  tel's  chicken  liver  mousse  journey — a different flavor  — and you'll want to learn
            been  a  better  time  to  tell  "This isn't an encyclopedia.  with  croissants,  a  dish  in-  profile  to  it  —  depending  more about the people re-
            those stories."              It's a feast. And everyone's  formed from his years cook-  on  who  we  met  and  who  defining  and  celebrating
            The book — with essays by  invited."                      ing  at  the  acclaimed  Le  we  got  together  with,"  he  this cuisine," said Endolyn.q

            ‘Borat’ star gives church $100K after member appears in film



                                                                      Jeanise Jones, 62, thought  prised by the donation, just  she's  simply  relieved  that
                                                                      she  had  been  recruited  the  amount,  noting  that  "Tutar" was never in trouble.
                                                                      by  her  place  of  worship,  the money had been ear-     Jones  has  not  seen  the
                                                                      Ebenezer  Missionary  Bap-   marked for community use,  movie but she said one of
                                                                      tist  Church,  in  Oklahoma  The Oklahoman  reported.  the  film's  producers  called
                                                                      City to mentor a teenager  Scobey added that Cohen  to check on her after it was
                                                                      named  "Tutar"  who  came  knew the church is a com-      released.  Cohen  reached
                                                                      to  the  U.S.  with  her  father  munity  hub  where  people  out to her on Wednesday,
                                                                      from  a  developing  nation.  gather  for  spiritual  hope  said Jones, who noted the
                                                                      But  Jones  didn't  find  out  and help.                  call was "enlightening."q
                                                                      until  the  film  was  released  The  movie  follows  Borat
                                                                      on Amazon Prime last week  Sagdiyev,  portrayed  by       Solution Sudoku
                                                                      that "Tutar" was an actress  Cohen,  as  he  returns  to
                                                                      and the man — whom she  America  from  Kazakhstan,
                                                                      believed  was  the  girl's  fa-  with his daughter portrayed
            In this Wednesday, July 31, 2019 file photo, Sacha Baron Cohen   ther — was actually Cohen.  by Maria Bakalova, to offer
            arrives at the 2019 Hollywood Foreign Press Association's Annual   Rev.  Derrick  Scobey,  the  a "bribe" to American lead-
            Grants Banquet at the Beverly Wilshire Beverly Hills, Calif.   church's senior pastor, said  ers. It is a sequel to "Borat,"
                                                     Associated Press  Cohen made the donation  which was released in 2006.
            OKLAHOMA  CITY  (AP)  —  woman  who  believed  she  on  Wednesday.  Scobey  After the latest film's debut,
            Actor Sacha Baron Cohen,  was taking part in a docu-      added  that  he  and  other  many on Twitter described
            who  stars  in  "Borat  Subse-  mentary  but  instead  was  church members also were  Jones'  character  as  the
            quent Moviefilm," donated  being featured in the moc-     not aware of the movie.      movie's  hero,  moral  com-
            $100,000 to the church of a  kumentary comedy film.       Scobey said he wasn't sur-   pass and breakout star. But            Puzzle on Page 13
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