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                         The Misadventures of the Salle du Conservatoire


                                                             By


                                                    Pierre-René Serna

                                                  © 2004 Pierre-René Serna


                                               Translated by Michel Austin
                                                      © Michel Austin

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                   The hall of the former Conservatoire  (nowadays the Conservatoire d’Art Dramatique, in Paris’
               9th arrondissement), still remains that well-kept secret, unknown to tourists and to many Parisians.
               Yet this building, loaded with an illustrious musical past that is without equal, provides a unique
               testimony on the art of the concert halls of the past and is a priceless architectural jewel.

                   Originally, that is in the early XVIIth century, the area of the Faubourg Poissonnière was nothing
               but  open  fields  and  wasteland  beneath  the  ramparts  surrounding  Paris.  When  these  were
               demolished and the Boulevards created, the area beyond the old city limits was parcelled out for
               residential  homes  and  private  hotels.  This  extended  area  of  Paris,  henceforth  called  La
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               Nouvelle France , attracted royal attention and in the brand new rue Bergère it was decided to set
               up the Hôtel des Menus Plaisirs. This institution, the equivalent of the present Ministry of Culture,
               included within its precinct art schools and companies of actors and musicians. The architect
               Louis-Alexandre Giraud, who collaborated with Gabriel on the Opéra of the Versailles Château,
               was responsible for the original building, built between 1763 and 1787; it included storage rooms
               for stage sets and workshops, to which were added an adjoining theatre. This theatre, the former
               Théâtre de la Foire Saint-Laurent of 1752, the work of the famous stage engineer Arnould, was
               dismantled then reassembled at the Menus Plaisirs; it witnessed among others the first performance
               of La Serva Padrona by Pergolese. It was on this spot that at the instigation of Napoleon I the
               present hall was built between 1806 and 1811, on the plans of the architect Delannoy, inspired by
               the original model. Other buildings were added later, such as the library in 1808. In the meantime
               (in  1795),  to  take  the  place  of  the menus  plaisirs,  too  redolent  of  the  Ancien  Regime,  the
               Conservatoire of music and declamation was instituted.

                   From then on, this hall, one of the very first concert halls in history, became the musical meeting-
               place of Europe. The Concerts Français founded by Habeneck were succeeded in 1828 by the
               Société des Concerts du Conservatoire, presided over by Cherubini; its inaugural concert took
               place  on  9  March.  This  was  the  setting  for  the  first  performances  in  France  of  Beethoven’s
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               symphonies and the majority of Berlioz’s symphonic works . Its incomparable acoustic was hailed
               from its opening and celebrated by musicians all over the world, and it long remained a model.
               Concerts were given there regularly up to the Second World War, infrequently thereafter (notably
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