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MESA FOLK OP HOPILAND              103

                              ing sand columns, the far-off thunder-storm, the vibra
                               tion of the midday air, and the sparkling night sky
                              must inspire the most prosaic mind.  There comes to
                               one in these surroundings a feeling of freedom, to
                              gether with a sense of the vastness, transparency, and
                               mystery of the desert which stir the emotions and
                               makes the close pent life of crowded cities left behind
                               seem but an unsubstantial dream. Here the Hopi
                               have been always free : the isolated life on the narrow
                               mesas brings about a close companionship and a true
                               home-life besides.  The air of the desert makes a man
                              healthy and hungry, thus cheerfulness cannot but fol
                               low, expressed in songs that are from the soul.
                                It must be confessed that the impression of Indian
                              music one draws from various sources is that it con
                              sists of whoops, yells, and odd, guttural noises, but
                              this is far from describing Hopi music. Between the
                              light and airy Kachina songs and the stirring though
                              somewhat gruesome chants of the Snake ceremony,
                              there is a variety of compositions to many of which
                              the most enlightened music lovers would listen with
                               pleasurf.
                                The Flute music is especially pleasing.  In the sum
                               mer of 1896, the writer had the good fortune to wit
                               ness the Flute ceremony at the Hopi pueblo of Walpi.
                               In the course of the ritual, which is an invocation for
                               rain, a series of songs are repeated each day for several
                               days.  To one hearing Indian music for the first time
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