Page 34 - Mark Gommers "Bowlines Analysis
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Applying the theory…
This single eye version of Mike Karash’s double eye knot was presented by Mark
Gommers to the IGKT forum some years ago. At the time, it was unclear if the crossing
knot / Munter hitch nipping structure would qualify as a ‘nipping loop’. This author posits
that it is a nipping ‘structure’ (not a loop) – and takes the form of a ‘Munter hitch’. The
Munter hitch is used extensively in mountaineering as a belay mechanism. The holding
power of a Munter hitch is provided courtesy of a ‘capstan effect’.
?
SPart
A capstan effect is created as
the ongoing eye leg performs a U
turn around the SPart. Friction at
this point has the effect of
reducing the compressive force
of the nipping structure.
[Note that this is how the
‘Munter Hitch’ works – with the
contact radius against its own
SPart providing the friction
force].
This Munter hitch does clamp the bight and
compress material within its structure. The
point where the ongoing eye leg performs a
U turn around its own SPart induces a
significant capstan effect. This has the effect
of inhibiting the compressive force of the
nipping structure – it does not function as
Ongoing
eye leg effectively as a closed helix.
Capstan effect
Page 33 of 59 Bowline Analysis Version 2.7a 16 July 2016 © Copyright Mark Gommers