Page 46 - Mark Gommers "Bowlines Analysis

The so-called ‘Yosemite’ variation of
the Bowline is an attempt to make the
standard #1010 structure more secure.
Figure 5a However, the structure is not as secure Figure 5b
as is widely believed and may be
compromised with the use of certain
stiffer ropes. Also, care must be taken
not to draw the tail up before setting the
nipping loop or it may become
displaced and compromise the knot.
Nevertheless, it is widely used in
Collar climbing applications.

History: An IGKT member (‘knot 
rigger’) pointed out that Bruce Smith, in
Nipping Nylon Highway no. 22 cites Tim
Setnicka's 1980 book Wilderness
loop Search and Rescue as a source for the
"Yosemite tie-off". He asserts that
Setnicka learned this tail securing finish
in his "ranger classes" at Yosemite
National Park.

Tail wraps

around

returning eye
leg, then

tucks through

collar to Yosemite Bowline Yosemite Bowline
finish. Detail view Conventional view

SPart

Warning: Do not draw the
tail up before properly
tightening the nipping loop.

Figure 6a Figure 6b

Nipping loop



The ‘Yosemite’ Bowline can
easily be miss-tied. If the tail
is drawn up before the SPart
has been tightened (hence
also tightening the nipping
loop), the tail can be
displaced to the extent that
the entire Bowline structure
is compromised.

Page 45 of 59 Bowline Analysis Version 2.7a 16 July 2016 © Copyright Mark Gommers