Page 236 - Pie It Forward: Pies, Tarts, Tortes, Galettes, and Other Pastries Reinvented

are Callebaut’s 60/40 and Valrhona’s Le Noir. The 60/40 refers to
the percentage of cocoa; the “Le Noir” falls just a little below 60
percent. And while you might think, “I’ll just look for any old

chocolate that says it’s within the 60 percent range,” I’d caution
you. The two I’ve mentioned have a lovely balance between
glorious chocolate flavor and just enough sweetness. I find that
most other brands might boast a high percentage of cocoa but are
so cloyingly sweet that the taste of cocoa is lost.
The percentage also makes a difference in the workings of the
recipes. With a lower or higher percentage, other ratios within a
chocolate recipe have to be changed. Say you want to use milk

chocolate in a mousse instead—it won’t set the way a dark-
chocolate mousse would, and you’ll likely have to add gelatin to
achieve the desired firmness. The cocoa acts as a firming agent,
and you need a specific ratio to make the recipe work properly.
As for cocoa powder, I use Callebaut’s Extra Brute and

Valrhona’s Cocoa Gastronomie exclusively. Period. No
substitutions in my kitchen. They are simply the best, in my
opinion. If you don’t have a restaurant-supply shop that sells
these brands near you (I’ve found them at Whole Foods and
higher-end grocery stores), they’re readily available online.