Page 124 - Pie Squared

PRESS-IN CRUSTS

For the doughphobic, a press-in crust is a lifesaver. But that doesn’t

mean it’s a lazy crust. There is still a technique, a method, which
results in a great crust. Without some firm pressure, they’re too
crumbly. Too much butter and they’re mushy and never dry out
enough. Not enough butter and they’re sandy and ineffective. Take

the time to carefully prepare the crust and the pie will cut and serve
satisfactorily.
Cookbook author, writer, and Food52 cofounder Amanda Hesser
described the “sides first” crust method in her recipe for a press-in

tart shell and I’ve adhered to this principle ever since I first saw it.
Empty the dough into the pan and, taking walnut-sized pieces, press
these smaller amounts of dough into the sides and corners of the
pan first. Build the sides evenly thick, about ¼ inch, all the way

around and square up the top surface. Use the side of your hand
and your knuckles, not your fingertips, to make an even, firm edge.
Use a metal cup measure or the flat bottom of a drinking glass to
press the remaining dough evenly across the bottom of the pan.

Steal from the sides to fill in the base only if needed. With a table
knife, fork, or other tool, lightly press a design evenly spaced along
the top edge. After all, it is the only part of the crust that will show.
This method works best with the Shortbread Crust (here), the Olive

Oil Crust (here), and the Cracker Crumb Crusts (here). Chill the crust
for 20 minutes before baking; this will help it retain its shape, and
avoid any slumping in the hot oven.
Alternatively, for Cookie Crumb Crusts (here) and the Hash

Brown Crust (here), it’s more effective to work from the base of the
pan moving the crust to the sides. Dump the dough into a 9- by 13-
inch slab pie pan. It’s likely to be crumbly and not cohesive. Use a
metal cup measure or the flat bottom of a glass to press the crumbs