Page 17 - Pie Squared
P. 17

tested  and  retested,  until  the  crusts  and  fillings  in  the  recipes  that
                follow became utterly dependable and positively delicious.

                    To make a slab pie is not as straightforward as just doubling any
                old pie recipe. It’s a different pie altogether. Right off the bat, the ratio
                is  different:  It’s  twice  as  much  crust  but  only  half  as  much  filling.
                Along  the  way,  I  learned  to  approach  pie  making  differently.  I

                tweaked the seasonings, tinkered with the dough recipe, and learned
                to  rely  on  a  pattern  of  frequent  chilling  during  the  pie-making
                process.
                    Fruit  pies  were  clear  cut—add  more  fruit.  Other  sweet  pies

                worked the same way, with more pudding, nuts, chocolate, or chiffon.
                The sweet pie recipes just needed a mathematical nudge.
                    Savory pies were different. Too much salt was catastrophic and
                too little was a crying shame. Seasonings had to be assertive. The

                fillings had to cook for just the right amount of time. And I wanted
                these  mealtime  pies  packed  with  vegetables  that  were  crisp  and
                flavorful, not mushy and indistinguishable.
                    I set out to rework old favorites into Ham and Gruyère Slab Pie

                (here) and Chicken Pot Slab Pie (here) and soon moved on to other
                flavors I love at dinner, wondering how they might work when slipped
                between two layers of flaky crust. And while I considered sweet slab
                pies the ideal option for larger gatherings, savory pies were dinner

                and then the next day’s lunch (Beefy Empanada Slab Pie, here). Or
                savory slab pies were the phoenix rising out of a stingy collection of
                leftovers (Cowboy Beef Stew Slab Pie, here, and “The Reuben” Slab
                Pie,  here).  We  learned  to  love  pie  for  lunch,  as  though  we  were

                eating in a proper London pub.
                    Along  with  savory  pies  came  savory  crusts:  cheddar-flecked,
                studded  with  caramelized  onion,  decorated  with  seeds,  or  with
                cheese  scattered  over  the  top.  And  then  came  the  combinations.

                That’s the thing about pie. It’s very adaptable.
                    Each  recipe  offers  suggestions  for  Swaps  for  alternate  crusts,
                filling ingredients, and toppings. Consider the Southern-Style Tomato
                Slab Pie (here), where an alternative to the Cheddar Cheese Crust

                (here)  is  an  All-Butter  Crust  (here).  Or  the  Loaded  Baked  Potato
                Slab  Pie  (here),  where  a  Pretzel  Crust  (here),  pressed  in,  can
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