Page 18 - Pie Squared
P. 18

substitute  for  the  Caramelized  Onion  Crust  (here),  which  is  rolled
                out. The Banana Pudding Slab Pie (here) is luscious and traditional

                in a Vanilla Wafer Crust (here), but a Chocolate Wafer Crust (here)
                with  a  swipe  of  caramel  raises  this  pie  to  a  whole  new  level  of
                indulgence.
                    A beautifully turned out pie is challenging without the right dough

                —one that is pliable, reliable, and, of course, delicious. My pie crust
                recipes are sized to fit the pan precisely, with a tidy crimp around the
                edges.  The  crust  is  flaky  and  crispy,  sturdy  yet  tender,  easy  to
                manage, lattice, slice, and crimp. My favorite All-Butter Crust (here)

                swings from sweet to savory without skipping a beat and takes on
                flavorings generously. I hope it will become your favorite crust, too.
                    I  am  aware  that  there  are  doughphobics  that  walk  among  us.
                People for whom a terrible experience has so shaken them that they

                swear never again to make a pie. Slab pies may be a way back to
                pie. Keep in mind, pie making is a skill, not a talent. A person can
                learn  a  skill  and  perfect  it  with  practice.  I  hope  the  Tools  and
                Techniques  section  (here)  will  help  you  find  your  own  personal

                rhythm in pie crust, the steady motion of the pin, the easy crimping,
                the insouciant slashing, all greeted with comfort and ease.
                    Nevertheless, I realize that some of you are not jumping on the
                rolled-out pie dough bandwagon no matter what I say. I’ve got you

                covered. Press-in crusts (here) will fit both sweet and savory recipes.
                Whether speculoos or Ritz, amaretti or saltines, crumb crusts stand
                in with no rolling pin involved. An Olive Oil Crust (here) is flaky and
                complements most savory fillings, and the Shortbread Crust (here)

                works magic with the sweet pie fillings.
                    While 4 cups of filling makes for a perfectly plump 9-inch round
                pie,  a  slab  pie  demands  a  generous  5  or  6  cups  to  assure  a
                sufficiency of satisfying filling. Slab pies are 2 to 3 inches deep at the

                most, with squared edges and corners. They’re not like a round pie,
                where the filling might be twice as deep and the bottom crust is very
                slightly sloped at the edges. Some filling recipes tended to dry out
                when slabified. It took plenty of trial and error to find the sweet spot

                for thickeners where the filling has body, isn’t watery, and is never
                pasty or gummy. Seasoning is vital. Without salt, the filling can be
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