Page 34 - Pie Squared

There is no greater pie disappointment than Soggy Bottom, but
runny fillings aren’t welcome, either. I’ve got the fix for Soggy Bottom

(see Ovens, Steels, and Stones, here). Runny fillings? It’s all about
the thickener.

Cornstarch thickens to a clear, not opaque, gel. I like it in fruit pies

or with pudding fillings as there is no taste associated (as with flour).
Once cornstarch is added, the filling must come to a boil to thicken.
This happens as fruit pies bake.

Instant ClearJel is another form of cornstarch. It was developed for
commercial use because it has a longer hold than standard
cornstarch, allowing pies to sit for more days in a retail bakery
setting. That’s handy, I suppose (pies don’t last that long around my

house). I like using ClearJel with berry and cherry pies as they tend
to be very juicy with a naturally runny gel. I never use ClearJel with
custards or puddings—that’s a recipe for glue. Instant ClearJel is
found online at KingArthurFlour.com and other places. It keeps for

years.

Tapioca pearls are often recommended for pie filling and I’ve had
good luck with them, although they can be tricky to find in the

grocery store. If you like using tapioca, substitute an equal amount
wherever I use cornstarch or Instant ClearJel.

Flour makes gravy and that’s why I choose to use it for many savory

pie fillings. Browning the flour along with the fillings and before
adding the liquid provides a much deeper, richer flavor: a roux.
Cooking also overcomes any possibility of an unappealing raw flour
taste.

Dried fruit thickens fruit pies; grind dried fruit with the recipe’s sugar
amount for a boost of sturdying pectin that gels the filling naturally.
See So Very Apricot Slab Pie, here, for the method.

CHILLING