Page 43 - ABFI March 19 issue

Beverages

A sip of history

Malaysia’s famed white coffee, a strong sweet brew, has an interesting story of origin

- A Shrikumar

e are in one of the “The coffee is also
many kopitiams considered healthier, as the
Wthat dot Kuala beans have no caramelised
Lumpur. Even as we take sugar in them,” adds Tansen.
in the invigorating aroma at The Old Town White Coffee
an Old Town White Coffee chain specialises in the
outlet, Tansen Cheang brings signature brew and has over
us cups of frothy, creamy a 100 outlets across Malaysia,
Malaysian coffee. serving a dozen variations of
“Coffee is an all-time the drink. He adds, “Though
choice for Malaysians,” he there are wacky flavours
says. And, there is a wide on the menu, classic white
range of the beverage on offer coffee is still the best selling
— kopi tarik (pulled coffee), number.”
kopi peng (thick iced coffee), “Coffee drinking is an
kopi O (black coffee), kopi elaborate affair in Malaysia,
cham (mixture of three parts “The speciality of white not palatable to the Chinese accompanied with a range of
of coffee and seven parts of coffee has more to do with and they modified the taste snacks as well,” says Randy
milk tea) and many others the roasting method than to suit their palate. Later, Liow, Executive Chef at
based on various flavours and the beans,” explains Tansen. the first-generation white Grand Seasons Hotel in Kuala
combinations. “The trademark brew is a coffee underwent a series Lumpur.
However, there is one mixture of arabica, robusta of refinements to arrive at Coffee and kaya toast is
coffee that is rooted in history and liberica beans in a secret a standard recipe. It is seen the go-to combo, apart from
and taken seriously by coffee proportion that is roasted in as an indigenous culinary hors d’oeuvres such as Pie
aficionados in Malaysia. That palm oil margarine, which invention by the population Tee, a Chinese tart with a
is the iconic ‘White Coffee’ adds a unique texture and of Ipoh,” says Tansen. “As no crispy outer coat stuffed with
from the town of Ipoh, which flavour to the beans.” sugar or wheat is added to the sliced spring onions, carrots
has been rated among the The history of white coffee beans while roasting, it gives and prawns and topped with
th
top three coffee destinations dates to the 19 Century, the beans a lighter shade and shrimp sauce and sambol.
in Asia by Lonely Planet. when the town of Ipoh in that is one reason for it being Characterised by a strong,
Characterised by a strong, the Perak state of northern called ‘white coffee’. nutty flavour, this pale brown
nutty flavour, this pale Malaysia was a major centre However, neither the coloured white coffee is one of
brown-coloured white version for tin mines. It is said that coffee nor the bean is white. the most sought after drinks
of the beverage is rich, velvety the Chinese introduced white The Chinese used the name in Malaysia.
and sweet, making it one of coffee, by adding sweetened to distinguish ‘white sweet
the most sought-after drinks condensed milk to the black coffee’ as from the black bitter (The writer was in Malaysia on
by both locals and tourists in coffee that the English had. variant that was prevalent invitation from Tourism Malaysia)
Malaysia. “Acidic black coffee was before.

AgriBusiness & Food i ndustr y March 2019 43