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Wachau Valley wine country. We had only half a day
           there, so I took off on my own. When I visited St. Veit’s,
           Krems’ parish church, I expected to find a crowd at
           Mass.  Instead I had the centuries-old baroque jewel   In Passau, Germany, Viking cruisers
           to myself.                                          enjoyed a private concert at St. Stephen’s
             Unexpectedly – and serendipitously – I found the   Cathedral, home to Europe’s largest pipe
           crowd later as I walked solo on a meandering path   organ (Upper left). Vienna offered a cornu-
           along the Danube. As I approached a lazy bend in the   copia of treats - from scrumptious desserts
           river, what had begun as a distant murmur became    to a peek inside the historic Spanish Riding
           laughter.  Then there was music. And finally, I found   School where Lipizzaner stallions are
           hundreds of locals – families gathered for a massive   trained.
           trout barbecue.  They welcomed me into their grand
           circle.  It’s an indelible memory that has become a
           favorite travel souvenir.




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