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elusive---are serious business in Lapland. Sure, some of January. Temperatures can drop to minus 40. (No,
folks come for winter sports, and families flock that’s not a typo). Even “Game of Thrones’” fans might
here hoping for an audience with the big bearded elf long for the relatively balmy climes north of The Wall.
himself. (Santa Claus Village is located in Rovaniemi, So we should count ourselves lucky when James
160 miles south, and he apparently maintains an Robertson, a native Scotsman who works for UK-
office—a red-painted, peaked-roof log structure—here based tour operator Inghams, offers up a relatively
in Saariselkä.) optimistic forecast. “Most of the week, it’s meant to be
But the Aurora seems to rank as the top attraction just below zero, so quite warm, really,” he says, without
among tourists willing to brave the harsh winter a trace of irony. “Of course, it’s a dry cold, so even if it’s
in northernmost Lapland, when the sun refuses to minus 15, it’s not too bad,” he says cheerily. Somehow,
rise---much less shine---throughout December and half I’m not reassured.

198 WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2018