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handlebar. If that’s my life flashing before me, it looks
            a lot like the back-end of a dog.
             Finally, after what seems like rather a long time,
            the guide hears our cries and pegs my predicament.
            Calling the huskies to a halt, he rushes back, his face
            full of concern. “You did a great job to hang on!” he
            says, shaking my hand before enveloping me in a
            comforting hug.
             “He’s the best-looking boy I’ve seen in Finland,” my
            friend confides later. Maybe so, but I reckon there are
            more effective ways of flirting than being dragged
            through dog pee-drizzled snow like a Finnish version
            of the bungling Bridget Jones.
             There’s no balm for frazzled nerves like the Muotka
            Wilderness Hotel, where we transfer the next night.
            This woodland camp, about nine miles south of     Visitors set off down a track
            Saariselkä, encompasses a main building with a    in Finnish Lapland in a
            dining room bookended by a lounge with an open    reindeer-drawn sled.
            fireplace and a well-stocked bar, which is surrounded
            by detached log suites and intimate Aurora Cabins.
             Each conical Aurora Cabin features a large glass
            window wall, which allows you to view the Northern
            Lights (should they deign to make an appearance)
            without leaving the warmth and comfort of your bed.
            The lodge also offers nocturnal excursions deeper
            into the darkness in search of the Aurora Borealis,
            with the option of steering your own snowmobile
            or cozying up in a snowmobile-drawn sled, which
            bumps and winds through the snow-iced forest like a
            children’s funfair ride in a magical fairyland.
             After one restful night here, I feel ready to face    IF YOU GO
            another animal encounter. This time, it’s a reindeer
            sleigh ride on a farm run by the indigenous Sami   Getting there: Fly to Ivalo airport, which is less than
            people, who speak in a variety of unique dialects and   17 miles from Saariselkä.
            dress in colorful wool clothing, laden with symbols    Where to Stay: There are several hotels within
            that relate details about where they’re from and even   the village of Saariselkä, including Holiday Club
            their marital status. (Woe to the husband who comes   Saariselkä https://www.holidayclubresorts.com/en/
            home with the tassels on his “four winds” hat draped   resorts/saariselka/ and Santa’s Hotel Tunturi http://
            to the wrong side!)                               www.santashotels.fi/en/hoteltunturi. For details
             Determined not to let this experience go to the   on Muotka Wilderness Hotel, visit https://nellim.fi/
            dogs, so to speak, I surrender the reins to my friend.   muotka/.
            This time, I’m happy to ride shotgun on our short,   Top Safaris: http://www.topsafaris.fi/content/
            circular jaunt through the snowy pines.           en/1/10005/Home.html
             Unlike Santa’s reindeer, Snowball, as we’ve dubbed   Tourism information: http://www.inarisaariselka.fi/
            our pure white steed, never comes close to attaining   en/
            lift-off. But never mind. My spirit is soaring high on the
            thin arctic air.


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