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boots and wool sweaters). She told us a bit about her
                                                              life via the interpreter. Widowed three years, she has
                                                              three adult children who also live in town. She was
                                                              curious to know where all of us were from.
                                                                As we sampled the assortment of goodies and
                                                              sipped coffee, we chatted with others and took photos
                                                              of the house—as well as posing with our smiling
                                                              hostess.
                                                                After 90 minutes, we bid thank you (“Qujanaq”) to
                                                              her, gathered our jackets, sat in the small enclosed
                                                              front porch to put our shoes back on, and walked
                                                              downhill back to the town center.
                                                                Near the pier a few locals sold handmade items,
                                                              spread out on a table, including crafts and jewelry.
                                                              Several tourists, intrigued with the 40 “Stone & Man”
                                                              rock and boulder carvings around town—which
                                                              feature faces, whales, and fish, carved by various
                                                              Scandinavian artists—took photos of this open-air art
                                                              gallery. I entered one of the few souvenir shops I could
                                                              find, where I was dying to purchase a “Greenland”
                                                              T-shirt—but didn't, since, if I could find one for sale,
                                                              they cost $55! (The currency here is Danish krone.)
                                                                After browsing in a couple of shops, we stumbled













              PHOTO COURTESY OF WIKIMEDIA COMMONS

              The dining table was loaded with a half-dozen of the
            most delicious-looking home-made desserts, which
            the hostess passed around for everyone to sample
            as she poured coffee. Normally I don't indulge in
            dessert (Carl, who loved the pineapple upside-down
            cake, thinks I'm strange) but I had two helpings of
            the best-ever carrot cake! (You must also sample the
            traditional Kalaalit Kaagiat—Greenland coffee cake.
            A Kaffemik can also include meals of reindeer, seal,
            whale, fish soup and other local specialties.)
              Our hostess later changed into a native costume-
            -which she explained, with its intricate bead work,
            took two years to make!--and wore seal-skin boots (a
            traditional costume may also include long, white furry


                                                                 PHOTO BY SHARON WHITLEY  LARSEN
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