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Neuschwanstein
















                    he first time I visited Neu-  dozen tour buses lined the parking lot.
                    schwanstein castle we drove up   Sitting on an imposing crag above the
                    in a decrepit VW van. It was me   village of Hohenschwangau and Lake
             Tand Bob, my college roommate.       Alpsee, a tidy, Bavarian farmscape laid
            Bearded, hair to our shoulders. The   out below, the castle is the epitome
            van could barely make 60 mph on the   of Medieval romance. Towers, gables,
            Autobahn; a month later its tailpipe   pinnacles, massive stone ramparts.  You
            would fall off.                       can imagine armored knights jousting
              It was 1969.                        in the walled courtyard or, as Walt
              The second time was this past       Disney had in mind when he designed
            September.  We drove up in a 55-seat   the Disneyland castle, Sleeping Beauty
            tour bus. My wife and I and 33 other   snoozing in the top floor.
            sightseers. The bus had luxurious seats,   Romantic notions took me to
            a chatty tour guide, and a cooler with   Neuschwanstein in the first place. Bob
            soft drinks and beer. My beard and hair   and I had adorned our shared apartment
            were white.                           with three out-sized travel posters: one
              Neuschwanstein seems little changed   showing the Cologne cathedral at night,
            in the past 50 years. Except for the   one of the Acropolis in Athens, and one
            crowds and the hang gliders floating   of Neuschwanstein.
            around its turrets. The castle is now   Fired up by Tolkein and a need to
            Germany’s second most popular tourist   forget – at least for one summer -- the
            attraction. Some 1.5 million visit it each   draft and the Vietnam War, we flew to
            year. In summer that can mean 6,000   Europe after graduation determined to
            visitors a day.  When we arrived, two   visit each poster scene.















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