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before the king’s death.  You get whisked through the
                                                              whole place in around a half hour.  (Though you can
                                                              spend as long as you want in the gift shop.)
                                                                The castle was never meant to hold a royal court
                                                              and none of the viewable rooms are particularly large.
                                                              The biggest, the Hall of the Singers, is 89-by-33 feet.
                                                              About half-way through any of the rooms, the narra-
                                                              tion tapers off and you begin to feel pressure from
                                                              the incoming tide of tourists behind you. Gawking
                                                              time is limited.
                                                                Still a half-hour inside Neuwchwanstein is like being
                                                              inside a princely fever dream. The handful of rooms
                                                              is crammed with marble columns, gilt cornices,
                                                              mosaics, paintings, carvings, statues, mythological
                                                              murals, and Godzilla’s massive tiara. No, wait, that’s a
                                                              bejeweled chandelier with 96 candles weighing a ton
                                                              and shaped like a Byzantine crown.
                                                                Ludwig’s bedroom sports a carved bed stand
                                                              shaped like a Gothic tower; the living room features
                                                              160 swans -- painted, carved or cast in bronze. Even
                                                              the door handles are swan-shaped.  Ludwig knew
                                                              Richard Wagner and opera scenes from “Tannhauser,”
                                                              “Lohengrin” and “Parsifal” fill the walls.
                                                                Ludwig seems to have channeled Liberace as
                                                              Bavarian monarch. Delightful, kitschy, and a little
                                                              crazy in a good way.
                                                                For all the time spent on building Neuschwanstein,
                                                              Ludwig occupied the finished rooms for less than half
                                                              a year and slept over only 11 nights. The flight of his
                                                              imagination and failure of his ambitions are themes
                                                              that were laid out by both Dani and our castle guide.
                                                              Psychological theories abound, many hinging on
                                                              family dynamics and sexual orientation.


                                                              Tourists crowd a bridge to get there best
                                                              panoramic view of the castle.
                                                              A horse-drawn carriage carts tourists up the
                                                              mile-long road to the castle gates.
                                                              Right: The castle 10 years after its completion.
















          214    WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2018
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