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wooded paved pathway to the castle. Halfway up
                                                              we stopped at a trail-side stand and, heeding Dani’s
                                                              advice -- “They’re the reason I’m here today.”  – bought
                                                              some  “Quarkballchen,” a kind of deep-fried donut.
                                                              Fueled up for the next half-mile, we followed Dani as
                                                              she narrated the Neuschwanstein story.
                                                                This was the same path that King Ludwig II himself
                                                              walked as a boy before the current castle existed.
                                                              Ludwig was Neuschwanstein’s creator and the two
                                                              are inextricably entwined.
                                                                Born in 1845, Ludwig spent much of his youth
                                                              in what’s now called Hohenschwangau Castle, a
                                                              revamped fortress on a ridge overlooking Hohen-
                                                              schwangau village. Mostly ignored by his royal
                                                              parents, he grew up enamored of art and mythology,
                                                              Round Table legends and mighty deeds. These boyish
                                                              passions only grew with age. So much so that Ludwig
                                                              become himself legendary, the so-called “Mad King of
                                                              Bavaria.”
                                                                Ludwig was crowned at this father’s death in 1864.
                                                              He was only 18. His family had ruled Bavaria for 700
                                                              years. Within five years, he began construction of
                                                              Neuschwanstein. Meant to harken back to a Medieval
                                                              ideal, it was in fact a paean to mythology and ego; a
                                                              flight of fancy; a Disneyland castle begun 32 years
                                                              before Disney was born. Neuschwanstein didn’t
                                                              inspire fairy tales, it was inspired by them.
                                                                While Neuschwanstein was built upon the ruins
                                                              of two 11th century fortifications, Ludwig turned to
                                                              theater set designer Christian Jank for architectural
                                                              advice, not historians. Ultimately, the plans were so
                                                              grandiose and costly that Ludwig began to bankrupt
              Left: Portrait of King Ludwig II,  “The Mad     his family. Even as Bavaria lost a war and its identity
              King of Bavaria,” hanging  in the castle gift   as separate from Prussia, he kept on building and kept
              shop.                                           on borrowing money. It was still unfinished when he
              View from the castle parapets of Ho-            died in 1886. Mad indeed.
              henschwangau village below and Lake               Our castle tour entrance time was from 2:10-2:14.
              Alpsee beyond.                                  Dani warned us repeatedly: You miss that window,
                                                              you’re out of luck; the castle is booked solid. She
                                                              gathered our group by the entrance, next to a digital
                                                              timer. When it hit 2:10 our group, now mixed with a
                                                              couple of others, surged into the castle courtyard.
                                                                Neuschwanstein is run by a local organization
                                                              and local guides are mandatory; interior photos are
                                                              prohibited. While it looks imposing and has 115
                                                              rooms on multiple levels (Ludwig originally planned
                                                              for more than 200), only 17 rooms were completed


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