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SHADES OF GREENLAND                                          ments. He also—cleverly--named the land “Greenland”


                                                              as a gimmick to attract potential settlers. It worked!
                                                                Our ship anchored off the quaint town of Qaqortoq
                                                              in southern Greenland (pop. 3,000), founded in
                                                              1775—which has no roads leading in or out—and
                                                              is accessed only via helicopter (which also links to
                                                              the small international airport), dog sleds, all-terrain
                                                              vehicles, snowmobiles, boats, ferries or cruise ships. It
                                                              has a couple of pubs, one police station; one hotel, an
                                                              inn and two youth hostels; one tourist office/souvenir
                                                              shop (and a few other shops, including one selling
                                                              seal-skin boots, handbags and jackets), two large
                                                              grocery stores, a few cafe/restaurants, one 18-bed
                                                              hospital, a few churches and schools.
                                                                But no McDonald's, Starbucks, or Costco! Industries
                                                              include fishing, ship maintenance and repair, fur
                                                              production, government administration—and tourism,
                                                              including serving as a port of call for a few cruise
                                                              ships.
                                                                The town also has one interesting museum, in a
                                                              building constructed in 1804—a former inn where
                                                              Charles Lindbergh once stayed.
                                                                One shore excursion option in Qaqortoq (which
                                                              means “White” in Greenlandic; the fourth largest town
                                                              on the island—and regarded as this territory's most
                                                              beautiful) included a visit to an Inuit woman's home
                                                              for coffee and cake one morning. I was curious to see
                                                              what a private home would be like so my husband
                                                              Carl and I signed up!
                                                                After we tendered off the ship (which was anchored
                                                              not too far from an iceberg!), we met our local
                                  PHOTO COURTESY OF WIKIMEDIA COMMONS
                                                              guides—two young college students—at 8:30 a.m. at
                                                              the pier. Our group of 12 hailed from the U. S., New
             Only some 57,000 Greenlanders reside on this     Zealand, and England.
           world's largest island—which has the lowest popula-  One guide assured us that the private home was
           tion density; nearly 75% of it is uninhabitable, covered   “only a 10-minute walk” away. But he neglected to say
           in ice. A constituent country of the Kingdom of Den-  it was UPHILL!
           mark, the population of Greenland (Kalaallit Nunaat) is   Fortunately this was a gorgeous, sunny, September
           about 80% Inuit and about 12% Danish. The languages   day, a crisp 50-degrees. I was awestruck by the
           spoken are Kalaallisut and Danish.                 brightly colored wood buildings—houses and shops—
             We've all heard of Erik the Red (Norwegian Erik   floating up the hillsides, painted vivid red, green,
           Torvaldsson, father of Leif Eriksson) who set foot on   purple, blue, yellow. It was magical!
           this vast land in 985 and created the first Norse settle-



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