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It was a marvel to imagine people scrambling up the
                                                              same rock to store their maize. We had the feeling of
                                                              being dwarfed by the tall rock arch, and by time itself.
                                                                 To reach our final stop Tully put the Tahoe in
                                                              four-wheel drive and scaled a passageway through the
                                                              rock that looked impassable. Soon we came to a halt
                                                              atop a small mesa, and off to the north we could see
                                                              Monument Valley’s magnificent buttes. Between us
                                                              and those buttes was a group of cylindrical rocks that
                                                              looked like giant red cupcakes.
                                                                “We call these flying saucers, or cow pies,” Tully said,
                                                              but I thought the cupcake image was more apt. With
                                                              the cupcake rocks in the foreground and the buttes on
                                                              the horizon, we felt as if we had just landed on a new,
                                                              wonderful planet. But no, this was Monument Valley,
                                                              an incomparable emblem of the American West.

                                                                IF YOU GO


                                                              Monument Valley is 25 miles north of Kayenta, the
                                                              nearest town, which offers accommodations.
                                                              At the park are two hotels, The View and Goulding’s
                                                              Lodge.
                                                              The View, located in the park, is the newer and posher
                                                              of the two, offering stunning views right from your
                                                              balcony. It houses a restaurant, gift shop and other
                                                              amenities.
                                                              Goulding’s Lodge, where we stayed, is seven miles
                                                              from the park, in Utah. It offers a restaurant, gift shop
                                                              and a museum of the historic trading post that includes
                                                              exhibits of Monument Valley’s role in moviemaking.
                                                              Navajo cuisine has its own flavor and features Navajo
                                                              fry bread, a puffy flat bread that has a clear, light taste.
                                                              We enjoyed such dishes as Navajo tacos, mutton stew,
                                                              and blue corn pancakes.
                                                              Getting to Monument Valley is a challenge, as it is
                                                              more than a six-hour drive from Phoenix and Salt Lake
                                                              City, and more than five hours from Albuquerque.
                                                              Flagstaff, Ariz., is three hours away.
                                                              The valley is in the desert about a mile high, so
                                                              weather can be extreme. In January the average high
                                                              is 40 degrees F, and the average low is 24. In July the
                                                              average high is 92 degrees and the average low is 67.
                                                              April, May and October are the most moderate months
                                                              to visit. Summer months are the most crowded.






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