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THE ICK OF THE VAMPIRE EEL









            Impressions


            of a Curious



          American


            Tourist in                                          Alow – for starters, that would be frog legs, rabbit,
                                                                  mong those French delicacies that I can’t swal-

            France                                            duck, pâté and foie gras -- one rises above them all,

                                                              slithery and slimy.
                                                                Take the Lamprey. Please.
                                                                Among so many varieties of eels that lurk beneath,
           By John Freeman                                    this eel is the eel-iest, by far, some 20 inches of wiggly,
                                                              squiggly ick. Turns out Lampreys look like most eels,
             Here’s a series of six impressions from a recent 12-day   with one exception: They have a circular suction cup
           trip to France. As background, we spent the first four days   for a mouth. Plus razor-sharp teeth. Not a good look.
           in Paris, then took a 7-day river cruise (via Uniworld) to the   Much akin to Jimmy Buffet’s favorite cheeseburger,
           Bordeaux region.                                   these Medieval relics have a carnivorous habit that
             Did we have a great time? Oui. Are we happy to back   means they attach that sucker to the flesh of, we
           home? Oui, oui.                                    assume, unsuspecting fish that happen to meander
             As a disclaimer, these tales are arranged in no particular   by. Then they suck that poor fish’s blood.
           order, nor are they intended to be historically precise or   Worse yet, the French actually eat Lamprey. But
           even culturally refined. They simply reflect my writerly   not before they go through an arduous process of
           observations and impressions as a curious American tourist,   preparation, which includes adding their blood. That of
           a stranger in a sometimes strange – though very welcom-  the eel, not the chef.
           ing – country that’s often misunderstood and even avoided.  Seems eating these hideous creatures has been a
                                                              thing for nearly forever, with the recipe little changed
                                                              since. They are easily available in most any French
                                                              village market, alive and kept captive in watery plastic
                                                              tubs, ready for their fate. And yours, if you dare.
                                                                After you’ve caught or bought one, first you must kill
                                                              it -- by any means possible. Then marinate that bad
                                                              boy in its own blood for days. Then skin it. Don’t forget
                                                              to surgically remove the suction cup. You can’t miss it.
                                                                Slice into long, gooey strands. Add plenty of white
                                                              wine, onion, garlic, herbs, salt, butter. Simmer for 30
                                                              minutes. Better yet, forever.
                                                                Bon appétit.




          232    WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2018
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