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A32    FEATURE
              Saturday 28 September 2019
            When disaster strikes, Chef Jose Andres is on the ground



            By LEANNE ITALIE                                                                                                    to  leave.  On  Friday,  World
            Associated Press                                                                                                    Central announced a new
            NEW  YORK  (AP)  —  After                                                                                           Climate  Disaster  Fund  with
            earthquakes, as hurricanes                                                                                          the goal of raising $50 mil-
            blow  and  drench,  when                                                                                            lion to make its efforts even
            wildfires   chew   through                                                                                          more  nimble  and  adapt-
            neighborhoods  and  vol-                                                                                            able  hour  by  hour,  a  par-
            canoes spew deadly lava,                                                                                            ticular  necessity  when  un-
            look  for  a  gregarious  chef                                                                                      foreseen issues arise.
            toting huge and mighty pa-                                                                                          In  the  Bahamas,  the  hotel
            ella pans.                                                                                                          where  they  had  planned
            His  name  is  Jose  Andres,                                                                                        to  stage  food  distribu-
            and  he  might  just  be                                                                                            tion  in  Abaco  was  heavily
            changing  some  rules  on                                                                                           damaged, forcing them to
            how  expedient  food  relief                                                                                        cook  about  100  miles  (160
            is  distributed  to  victims  of                                                                                    kilometers)  to  the  south  in
            disaster  when  they  need                                                                                          Nassau and fly in the food.
            it the most: Now, not days                                                                                          The majority of World Cen-
            from now.                                                                                                           tral’s  funding  comes  from
            The  frank-talking  Spaniard                                                                                        individual  donors  offering
            is a celebrity chef with two                                                                                        $10 or less. The organization
            James Beard awards, near-                                                                                           has  a  full-time  staff  of  25
            ly  three  dozen  restaurants                                                                                       and a broader circle of re-
            and four Michelin stars in his   This  Sept.  12,  2019  photo  released  by  David  Martensen  shows  chef  Jose  Andres  plotting  food   serves, including a network
            hip pocket. He also found-   delivery points on a map of the Bahamas in the World Central Kitchen headquarters kitchen on   of  cooks  and  other  volun-
            ed a nonprofit, World Cen-   Paradise Island in Nassau, Bahamas, in the aftermath of Hurricane Dorian.              teers willing to pack up and
            tral Kitchen, that has served                                                                      Associated Press  head  out  on  a  moment’s
            nearly  10  million  meals  on   disaster’s onset, island hop-  While in town for the United  es as a “first food respond-  notice.
            the  front  line  of  emergen-  ping  by  helicopter  as  the  Nations’  annual  gathering  er.”  He  plans  to  return  to   But  key,  said  World  Cen-
            cies  since  the  2010  earth-  stubborn storm churned for  of  world  leaders,  Andres,  the Bahamas as soon as he   tral’s  executive  director
            quake  in  Haiti  and,  most   hours. “I believe in the pow-  50, is doing what he can to  can.  The  work  of  his  orga-  Nate Mook, is working with
            recently, in the Bahamas.    er of cooks like me coming  spread  the  message  that  nization,  and  many  other    local  people  in  hard-hit
            “I  cannot  have  my  fancy   together  to  fix  a  problem  food relief needs to be free  small   non-governmental   communities  to  help  plan
            restaurants  and  enjoy  life   that the big NGOs and big  of  the  constraints  of  bu-  players  like  it,  isn’t  cheap.   and untangle logistics, and
            and  just  stay  home  and   governments  are  highly  reaucracy and institutional  World  Central  purchases       to procure equipment and
            watch TV when people are     unprepared to respond to,  red tape.                      all its food and gets around   transport  as  cooking  and
            hungry and thirsty,” Andres   which is the most important  Andres  met  with  former  using    whatever    means    food distribution ramp up.
            told  The  Associated  Press   moment,  one  hour  after  President  Bill  Clinton,  like-  necessary,  whether  yacht,   “They  know  best  what  the
            from  New  York,  fresh  from   the  emergency  happens,”  minded      philanthropists  seaplane,  helicopter  or   needs  are,”  Mook  said.
            nearly  three  weeks  of  dis-  Andres  said  Tuesday.  “It’s  and Caribbean leaders this  truck.  They’re  often  the   “We  hire  local  chefs  and
            tributing  food  and  clean   the urgency of now.”        week about his experienc-    first  to  arrive  and  the  last   others  to  work  with  us  be-
            water in the Bahamas.                                                                                               cause they know how best
            He  and  his  small  organiza-                                                                                      to leverage what resources
            tion  often  do  it  with  the                                                                                      there are on the ground.”
            help  of  local  cooks,  via                                                                                        World Central doesn’t want
            field kitchens using nothing                                                                                        to  double  down  on  efforts
            more  than  propane  tanks,                                                                                         already  underway.  It  looks
            the giant cast iron pans of                                                                                         for holes and heads straight
            his  homeland  and  large                                                                                           to  them.  As  relief  turns  to
            containers  built  to  keep                                                                                         clean  up  and  reconstruc-
            thousands  of  hot  meals                                                                                           tion,  World  Central  trains
            warm for hours at a time.                                                                                           local  people  to  continue
            They  did  it  in  Puerto  Rico                                                                                     to help feed their commu-
            after Hurricane Maria. They                                                                                         nities.  In  Haiti,  the  organi-
            did it in Texas, South Caroli-                                                                                      zation  created  a  culinary
            na and Southern California.                                                                                         school  in  Port-au-Prince,
            They’ve  done  it  in  the  Do-                                                                                     complete  with  a  world-
            minican  Republic,  Nicara-                                                                                         class,  professional  kitchen
            gua,  Zambia,  Peru,  Cuba,                                                                                         and  a  full  dining  room  for
            Uganda,  Indonesia,  Mo-                                                                                            hosting events.
            zambique and Cambodia.                                                                                              Andres,  choking  up  at
            Andres  and  World  Central                                                                                         times  as  he  described  the
            Kitchen made their way to                                                                                           devastation  in  the  Baha-
            the  Bahamas  before  Hurri-                                                                                        mas, is in it for the long haul
            cane Dorian hit land, enlist-                                                                                       as he strives to improve the
            ing the help of the Nassau                                                                                          way  “zero  hour”  relief  is
            resort  Atlantis,  Paradise  Is-                                                                                    handled.
            land, that lent its industrial-                                                                                     “We  need  a  major  over-
            size kitchen as home base.                                                                                          haul,”  he  said.  “The  future
            They  provided  hot  meals,                                                                                         of relief must include NGOs
            sandwiches, fresh fruit and   This Sept. 6, 2019 photo released by Amilcar Navarro shows chef Jose Andres distributing food at   that are highly specialized.
            water in the hardest hit ar-  the Marsh Harbour Government Complex in Abaco, Bahamas, in the wake of Hurricane Dorian.  It’s  about  less  talking  and
            eas  to  the  north  from  the                                                                     Associated Press  more doing.”q
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