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A12   WORLD NEWS
                      Saturday 1 June 2019

            Migrants traverse the deadly last stretch of Darien jungle



            By JUAN ZAMORANO             fore  lodging  itself  in  Bel-  to  the  United  States.  Va-  weren’t  relieved  of  their  holds its own perils.
            Associated Press             lo’s  knee.  Fellow  migrants  rela acknowledged the dif-  cellphones  along  the  way  AP  journalists  accompa-
            BAJO  CHIQUITO,  Panama  helped  him  the  rest  of  the  ficulty  of  dealing  with  the  —  chat  with  loved  ones  nied  a  group  of  four  nar-
            (AP)  —  At  first  they  ap-  six-hour  journey  to  Penitas,  migrant  surge,  which  has  back home.             row, wooden boats as they
            peared  only  as  weary  sil-                                                                                       ferried  nearly  50  migrants
            houettes  emerging  from                                                                                            to  Penitas.  They  sat  single-
            the  dense  foliage  on  the                                                                                        file, wearing olive green life
            other  side  of  the  Tuquesa                                                                                       vests  provided  by  police,
            River.                                                                                                              packed  as  many  as  13  in
            Three women, one leaning                                                                                            each vessel.
            on a stick for support, and                                                                                         Javier García, another Cu-
            two  others  carrying  their                                                                                        ban,  said  he  had  left  his
            few  belongings  on  their                                                                                          pregnant wife back in Peru
            heads accompanied by a                                                                                              and  they  hoped  to  meet
            2-year-old  boy.  Two  men,                                                                                         up somewhere in Panama.
            one  carrying  a  machete,                                                                                          In  the  heart  of  Darien,  he
            arrived  soon  after  to  ford                                                                                      had  run-ins  with  several
            the  waters  to  safety  in  this                                                                                   dead  bodies,  a  panther
            village,  the  first  populated                                                                                     and robbers who stole $70
            place  on  the  Panamani-                                                                                           and his phone.
            an  side  of  the  unforgiving                                                                                      Just  before  boarding  the
            Darien Gap.                                                                                                         boat,  García  made  the
            After trekking for days from                                                                                        sign  of  the  cross:  “We  will
            Colombia,  migrants  arriv-                                                                                         see how it goes for us.”
            ing  at  Bajo  Chiquito,  feel                                                                                      The boat drivers frequently
            relief.  It’s  a  place  to  rest,                                                                                  lifted their outboard motors
            seek sustenance, let loved                                                                                          to  keep  them  from  collid-
            ones know they’re OK and                                                                                            ing  with  the  shallow,  rock-
            recover  their  strength.  But                                                                                      filled  riverbed,  steered  to-
            they’re not out of the woods                                                                                        ward the brush-lined shore
            yet, figuratively or literally —                                                                                    in search of deeper waters
            ahead  lies  one  last  trek  to                                                                                    and veered to dodge enor-
            safety  by  boat  or  by  foot,                                                                                     mous tree trunks ripped out
            and each option entails its                                                                                         at  the  roots  by  previous
            own deadly risks for a sud-  In this May 25, 2019 photo, a police officer count migrants in a boat that will navigate the Tuquesa   flash floods.
                                         river on their way to Peñitas, in Bajo Chiquito, Darien province, Panama.
            den and unexpected surge                                                                         Associated Pressa  According  to  border  po-
            of  thousands  of  migrants                                                                                         lice,  a  crowded  boat  re-
            traversing  Darien,  where  where  workers  applied  a  left  authorities  scrambling  “I  spoke  with  my  relatives,  cently capsized after collid-
            authorities  have  almost  no  bandage to immobilize his  to impose order.             who are worried,” said Ali-  ing with another while mak-
            presence and armed men  foot and help reduce swell-       Simply  closing  the  border  oska  Peña,  a  32-year-old  ing the voyage. Fortunately
            prey upon travelers.         ing  in  the  knee.  Sitting  on  with  Colombia  would  be  from  Matanzas  on  Cuba’s  nobody  died  —  the  water
            The  most  perilous  way  for-  a  folding  chair  and  clad  “difficult”  and  wasn’t  an  northern coast who arrived  was shallow at the time —
            ward  to  the  next  village,  in shorts, a tank top and a  option,  Varela  said:  “That  May  23  with  her  husband  but authorities know that at
            Penitas,  is  overland,  hug-  single  flip-flop,  he  told  The  would put the lives of these  and  9-year-old  daughter.  least a dozen migrants, like-
            ging  the  Tuquesa  and  the  Associated  Press  he  didn’t  people in jeopardy.”      “They asked how we were  ly  more,  have  been  killed
            Chucunaque  rivers.  Alexis  know  whether  he  would  During a recent visit by AP,  doing.”     Migrants   com-    recently by fast-rising rivers
            Bello Vargas, a 25-year-old  have surgery to extract the  about 1,000 migrants most-   plained  of  a  shortage  of  elsewhere in Darien.
            who  recently  made  that  projectile.                    ly  from  Haiti,  Cuba  and  medicine to treat common  A  handful  of  indigenous
            trek  with  his  wife,  and  12  The alleged attackers were  African  or  South  Asian  na-  maladies such as diarrhea.  villages  even  smaller  than
            other  Cubans  can  attest  detained,  but  the  alarm-   tions were in Bajo Chiquito,  Men, women and children  Bajo  Chiquito  dotted  the
            to  that.  They  had  already  ing  incident  illustrates  the  home to some 300 inhabit-  bathe  and  defecate  in  riverbanks,  and  the  sound
            been robbed in the heart of  lawlessness  of  the  Darien  ants from the Embera indig-  the  river,  which  is  also  the  of birdsong was near con-
            Darien and, like many who  and  migrants’  vulnerability  enous  group.  The  migrants  village’s  source  of  drink-  stant. This trip went without
            attempt  the  last  stretch  to  robbery,  sexual  assault,  slept  in  the  wood-siding  ing water. In Bajo Chiquito  incident,  and  the  migrants
            on foot, had no money to  illness  and  the  extreme  el-  and  zinc-roofed  homes  of  the  migrants  also  register  arrived  two  hours  later  to
            pay  the  $25  river  voyage.  ements.  More  than  7,300  the locals, paying $3 a day  with police for the first time  a  muddy  berth  at  Penitas.
            Just  15  minutes  after  set-  migrants  had  made  the  for the privilege, in tents or  in  the  country.  About  100  García bought a soda and
            ting out from Bajo Chiquito  crossing  this  year  through  on  mats  spread  out  under  leave  each  day  for  Peni-  something to eat.
            they were set upon by two  mid-April, according to fig-   a shed-like structure.       tas. A border police official  Here  they  would  face  an-
            men with hunting rifles who  ures from border police, on  Sitting  on  the  ground,  who was not authorized to  other wait, along with over
            ordered  them  to  stop  and  pace to be the most since  they  sipped  morning  tea  discuss the issue and did so  1,000  migrants  in  an  over-
            hand over their belongings.  a  previous  surge  in  2015-  and  hunched  over  bowls  on condition of anonymity  crowded  makeshift  camp,
            “We kept on walking — we  2016. Authorities did not re-   of  a  milky  gruel.  On  a  said most opt to wait for a  for buses to the Costa Rican
            had  nothing  because  we  spond to a request for up-     wood  plank  wall,  many  place on one of the boats  border.  But  finally  Darien
            had already been robbed  dated numbers.                   who  passed  through  had  —  perhaps  mindful  of  the  was behind them.
            — and they shot us,” Bello  Panamanian         President  scrawled  their  names  and  perils of continuing on foot,  Nguatem    Michael,    a
            Vargas  said.  “We  had  to  Juan  Carlos  Varela  said  places  of  origin:  “Kamal  after  having  seen  death  39-year-old  from  Camer-
            give  them  our  backpacks,  last week that at least 4,000  Hossain Bangladesh.” ‘’Ka-  and  danger  elsewhere  in  oon,  said  his  group  was
            and they left.”              migrants were in Bajo Chiq-  maldeeb — INDIA.” Around  Darien.                         ambushed  twice  in  the
            One bullet passed through  uito, Penitas and in western  nightfall  a  local  antenna  It’s a wait of about 10 days,  Gap.  Robbers  took  their
            the  leg  of  a  woman  who  Panama  near  Costa  Rica,  caught a signal that let mi-  for a trip that takes a cou-  money and passports, and
            was part of the group, be-   the  next  stop  on  the  road  grants — at least those who  ple  of  hours.  But  the  river  shot one of the migrants.q
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