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A28    SCIENCE
              Thursday 26 sepTember 2019
            Hardy scientists trek to Venezuela’s last glacier amid chaos



            By CHRISTINA LARSON and                                                                                             lines  of  climate  change.
            FEDERICA NARANCIO                                                                                                   Glaciers in the tropical An-
            Associated Press                                                                                                    des  have  been  retreating
            MERIDA,  Venezuela  (AP)                                                                                            faster than most other gla-
            — Blackouts shut off the re-                                                                                        ciers since scientists began
            frigerators where the scien-                                                                                        keeping detailed records in
            tists keep their lab samples.                                                                                       the 1970s, because tropical
            Gas  shortages  mean  they                                                                                          latitudes  get  more  direct
            sometimes  have  to  work                                                                                           sunlight and radiation.
            from home.                                                                                                          When a glacier melts away,
            They  even  reuse  sheets  of                                                                                       at  first  only  bedrock  is  left
            paper to record field data                                                                                          behind — sometimes rough
            because fresh supplies are                                                                                          gravel   and    sometimes
            so scarce.                                                                                                          smooth  rock,  worn  down
            As their country falls apart,                                                                                       by centuries or millenniums
            a hardy team of scientists in                                                                                       of grinding ice.
            Venezuela is determined to                                                                                          But  within  a  few  years  or
            transcend the political and                                                                                         decades,  bacteria  and  li-
            economic turmoil to record                                                                                          chen  began  to  colonize
            what happens as the coun-                                                                                           the area.
            try’s last glacier vanishes.                                                                                        As  they  decompose  the
            Temperatures are warming                                                                                            minerals  of  the  rock  and
            faster at the Earth’s higher                                                                                        their  bodies  then  decay
            elevations than in lowlands,   In this Feb. 19, 2019 photo, scientists hike during a mission to study how temperatures and plant   into organic matter, the first
            and  scientists  predict  that   life are changing in the Andean ecosystem known as the paramos _ a mist-covered mountain   hints of soil begin to form.
            the glacier — an ice sheet   grassland that lies between the top of the treeline and the bottom of the Humboldt glacier, in   And  soil  is  the  basis  of  a
            in the Andes Mountains —     Merida, Venezuela.                                                                     new  ecosystem,  providing
            could  be  gone  within  two                                                                       Associated Press  a  structure  to  retain  water
            decades.                     are in the Andes.            at  times  donning  helmets  50 years ago, in 1969, and  and for plant roots to grow.
            “If we left and came back  There’s  still  a  little  bit  on   and  holding  tight  to  ropes  the  scientists  there  see  “The  formation  of  soil  is
            in 20 years, we would have  Mount  Kilimanjaro,”  says    to  maneuver  up  steep  themselves  as  custodians  the  difference  between
            missed  it,”  says  Luis  Daniel  Robert Hofstede, a tropical   boulders.  Some  of  the  sci-  of long-term data monitor-  an  ecosystem  being  able
            Llambí, a mountain ecolo-    ecologist  in  Ecuador  who   entists  had  waterproofed  ing how temperatures and  to  form  quickly  and  be-
            gist at the University of the  advises international agen-  their worn-out old boots us-  plant  life  are  changing  in  ing  stalled  for  hundreds  of
            Andes in Mérida.             cies such as the World Bank   ing melted candle wax.      the region, including in the  years,” Llambí says.
            Scientists say Venezuela will  and United Nations.        Mountain  fieldwork  always  Andean ecosystem known  On  the  rocks  left  behind
            be the first country in South  Monitoring   Venezuela’s   is  physically  grueling,  but  as  the  paramos  —  a  mist-  when  the  glacier  retreats,
            America  to  lose  all  its  gla-  Humboldt glacier depends   the  deepening  crisis  in  covered  mountain  grass-  the  scientists  think  that  a
            ciers.                       on continuous visits, Llambí   Venezuela since the death  land that lies between the  new ecosystem resembling
            Throughout history, glaciers  notes.                      of  former  president  Hugo  top of the tree line and the  the  paramos  may  eventu-
            have  waxed  and  waned  And even in the best of cir-     Chavez  in  2013  has  trans-  bottom of the glacier.     ally begin to develop.
            numerous times.              cumstances,  it’s  no  easy   formed  even  simple  tasks  While  most  tundras  have  But  there  are  many  ques-
            But the rapid pace of gla-   trek  from  the  small  moun-  into immense hurdles.      sparse   vegetation,   the  tions  still  to  answer:  Will  it
            cial  retreat  over  the  past  tain town of Mérida to the   “Things  that  you  normally  paramos is famous for strik-  take decades to form new
            century and a half, accel-   ice  sheet  perched  within   take  for  granted  for  re-  ing plants called frailejones  soil? Can plant and animal
            erated by human activities  Venezuela’s Sierra Nevada     search  —  internet,  gas,  that can be taller than hu-   species that thrive at lower
            and the burning of fossil fu-  National  Park  at  nearly   electricity  —  all  become  mans and resemble a cross  elevations  also  survive  fur-
            els, creates a new urgency  16,500  feet  (5,000  meters)   scarce   and   unpredict-  between  a  cactus  and  a  ther upslope?
            —  and  opportunity  —  for  above sea level.             able,” Llambí says.          palm tree.                   Will they be able to adapt
            scientists  to  understand  When  Llambí  and  three      Perhaps  the  hardest  toll  These mountain grasslands  to  continually  changing
            how  freshly  exposed  rock  other  scientists  made  the   has  been  watching  many  also store and release wa-   temperatures?
            forms new soil and eventu-   journey this spring to scout   of  their  colleagues  and  ter  that  sustains  the  cit-  Venezuela  has  the  world’s
            ally new ecosystems.         out  mountain  terrain  for  a   students  leave,  joining  the  ies  and  croplands  further  largest  known  oil  reserves,
            While  most  of  the  planet’s  new research project, they   more than 4 million people  downslope.                 but  an  economy  hitched
            ice  is  stored  in  the  polar  first rode a cable car, then   who have fled Venezuela’s  It’s  hard  to  overstate  the  for  decades  to  global  oil
            regions, there are also gla-  walked  a  full  day  to  the   political upheaval in recent  importance of the Andean  demand has proven unsta-
            ciers in some mountainous  base  camp,  pitching  their   years.                       glaciers  in  maintaining  re-  ble. Llambí believes he has
            regions of the tropics — pri-  tents in drizzling rain.   “Every week, someone asks  gional water cycles.           a special obligation to help
            marily in South America.     Each day, they then had to   me why I haven’t left,” says  “More than 50 million peo-  inform the public of the im-
            “Practically all of the high-  climb  an  additional  three   Alejandra  Melfo,  a  team  ple  in  South  America  rely  pacts of climate change in
            mountain  tropical  glaciers  hours to reach the glacier,   member who is a physicist  on  water  provision  from  a country where the boom-
                                                                      at the University of the An-  the Andes,” says Francisco  and-bust cycle of fossil fuel
                                                                      des.                         Cuesta,  a  tropical  ecolo-  exploration  has  shaped
                                                                      Not  now,  she  tells  anyone  gist at the University of the  nearly everyone’s life.
                                                                      who asks.                    Americas  in  Quito,  Ecua-  “Our university is in Mérida,
                                                                      “Climate  change  is  real  dor,  who  marvels  at  the  which has long been called
                                                                      and  has  to  be  document-  dogged  work  the  team  is  ‘the city of eternal snow,’”
                                                                      ed,” she says. “We have to  doing under such punishing  he reflects.
                                                                      be there.”                   conditions.                  “We  are  discovering  that
                                                                      The    Institute  of  Environ-  “To me, it’s incredible that  ‘eternity’ is not forever, and
                                                                      mental and Ecological Sci-   they are still doing research  that’s what we have to get
                                                                      ences  at  the  University  of  there,” Cuesta says.      used to in a world with cli-
                                                                      the  Andes  was  founded  The region is one of the front  mate change.”q
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