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A28    SCIENCE
                     Saturday 15 June 2019

            What’s so bad about processed foods? Scientists offer clues


            By CANDICE CHOI                                                                                                     cessed  foods  we  eat.  All
            AP Food & Health Writer                                                                                             three studies come with big
            NEW  YORK  (AP)  —  Chips,                                                                                          caveats. The U.S. study was
            soda  and  frozen  pizzas                                                                                           tiny  and  individual  behav-
            tend to be full of salt, sugar                                                                                      ior varied widely: Some ate
            and  fat,  but  now  scientists                                                                                     about the same amount of
            are  trying  to  understand                                                                                         calories on both diets, and
            if  there’s  something  else                                                                                        others ate far more on the
            about    such    processed                                                                                          processed diet.
            foods  that  might  be  bad                                                                                         Meals in the two diets were
            for us.                                                                                                             rated  as  being  similarly
            Already,  the  spread  of                                                                                           pleasant, but Hall noted it’s
            cheap,  packaged  foods                                                                                             possible  participants  were
            has  been  linked  to  rising                                                                                       saying  what  they  thought
            obesity  rates  around  the                                                                                         they should. The processed
            world.  Yet  advice  to  limit                                                                                      food  diet  included  foods
            processed foods can seem                                                                                            like  salted  nuts  and  whole
            unhelpful,  given  how  con-                                                                                        milk, compared with unsalt-
            venient  they  are  and  the                                                                                        ed  nuts  and  lower-fat  milk
            growing  array  of  products                                                                                        for the unprocessed diet.
            that fall into the category.                                                                                        With the French and Span-
            While  three  recent  studies                                                                                       ish  studies,  there  could  be
            offer  more  clues  on  how                                                                                         other  habits  and  environ-
            our  increasingly  industrial-                                                                                      mental factors that explain
            ized  food  supply  may  be                                                                                         the  differences  in  health
            affecting  our  health,  they   This undated photo provided by the National Institutes of Health in June 2019 shows an “ultra-  risks. The studies also didn’t
            also  underscore  how  dif-  processed” lunch including brand name macaroni and cheese, chicken tenders, canned green   reflect the broader popula-
            ficult nutrition science and   beans and diet lemonade.                                                             tion.  In  the  Spanish  study,
            advice  can  be.  Here’s                                                                           Associated Press  participants  were  college
            what they say.               cereals,  energy  bars  and   That’s not all the bad news.  for  the  biological  reaction  graduates  and  relatively
            WHAT  DOES  “PROCESSED”  some yogurts.                    In another study based on  isn’t  clear.  Another  find-  younger.  And  though  pro-
            MEAN?                        WHAT’S WRONG WITH PRO-       questionnaires,   research-  ing:  People  ate  processed  cessed food was tied to a
            Whether  it’s  curing,  freez-  CESSED FOODS?             ers in France found people  foods faster.                 greater  risk  of  death,  the
            ing,  milling  or  pasteuriza-  Cheap  packaged  foods    who  ate  more  processed  “Those  foods  tend  to  be  total number of deaths was
            tion, nearly all foods under-  are  everywhere  including   foods  were  more  likely  to  softer  and  easier  to  chew  still relatively small.
            go  some  type  of  process-  checkout lines, gas stations   have heart disease. A simi-  and  swallow,”  said  Kevin  WHAT SHOULD YOU EAT?
            ing.  Even  though  process-  and  vending  machines,     lar study in Spain found eat-  Hall,  a  researcher  at  the  Even  without  the  latest
            ing itself doesn’t automati-  and a very small four-week   ing  more  processed  foods  National Institutes of Health  studies, advice to limit pro-
            cally make food unhealthy,  clinical  trial  might  deepen   was  linked  to  a  higher  risk  who led the study.   cessed   foods   probably
            “processed  foods”  is  gen-  our  understanding  of  why   of death in general.       Hall  noted  the  source  of  makes  sense  to  most  peo-
            erally a negative term.      that’s  likely  fueling  obesity   WHAT  IS  IT  ABOUT  PRO-  nutrients might make a dif-  ple.  Minimally  processed
            To  more  precisely  iden-   rates.                       CESSED FOODS?                ference. Fibers from whole  foods  tend  to  be  richer  in
            tify  the  processed  foods  Researchers  at  the  Na-    Beyond the fact they taste  fruits  and  vegetables,  for  nutrients and more difficult
            of  most  concern,  scientists  tional  Institutes  of  Health   really  good,  there  might  instance,  may  be  better  to  overeat,  since  they’re
            came  up  with  a  system  found people ate an aver-      other  reasons  why  it’s  so  for  making  people  feel  not as widely available and
            that groups foods into four  age of 500 extra calories a   hard  to  stop  eating  foods  full  than  the  types  of  fiber  convenient.
            categories. It’s far from per-  day  when  fed  mostly  pro-  like  cheese  puffs  and  ice  added to packaged foods  “What frustrates me is when
            fect,  but  the  system  says  cessed  foods,  compared   cream.                       such  as  cookies,  yogurt  the  message  is,  ‘Change
            highly processed foods are  with  when  the  same  peo-   When  fed  minimally  pro-   and even soda.               the  way  you  eat,’  without
            made  mostly  of  industrial-  ple were fed minimally pro-  cessed  foods,  people  in  For  the  French  study,  au-  thinking about why people
            ized  ingredients  and  addi-  cessed  foods.  That’s  even   the  clinical  trial  produced  thor  Mathilde  Touvier  also  eat the way they eat,” said
            tives, with little to no intact  though researchers tried to   more  of  a  hormone  that  noted the largely unexam-  Sarah  Bowen,  a  professor
            whole foods.                 match  the  meals  for  nutri-  suppresses  appetite,  and  ined  effects  of  the  “cock-  who  studies  food  and  in-
            Sodas, packaged cookies,  ents like fat, fiber and sugar.   less  of  a  hormone  that  tail”  of  additives  used  to  equality  at  North  Carolina
            instant noodles and chick-   The 20 participants were al-  causes hunger. The reason  make  the  various  pro-      State University. q
            en  nuggets  are  some  ex-  lowed to eat as much or as
            amples of highly processed  little  as  they  wanted,  and
            foods. But also included are  were checked into a clinic   New Oregon lab, seed certification
            products  that  can  seem  so their health and behav-
            wholesome,  like  breakfast  ior could be monitored.      bring standards to hemp


                                                                      By GILLIAN FLACCUS           an agreed-upon quantity.     in  Oregon,  coupled  with
                                                                      Associated Press             That’s one example of the  a  nascent  national  review
                                                                      AURORA, Ore. (AP) — A unit  startling  lack  of  uniformity  board  for  hemp  varieties
                                                                      of wheat is a called a bush-  — and accountability — in  and a handful of seed cer-
                                                                      el, and a standard weight  an industry that’s sprung up  tification  programs  nation-
                                                                      of potatoes is called a cen-  almost overnight since the  wide,  are  the  first  stabs  at
                                                                      tury.  But  hemp  as  a  fully  U.S. late last year removed  addressing those concerns
                                                                      legal U.S. agricultural com-  hemp  from  the  controlled  —  and  at  creating  ac-
                                                                      modity is so new that a unit  substances list.            countability  by  standardiz-
                                                                      of  hemp  seed  doesn’t  yet  A  global  hemp  research  ing U.S. hemp for a global
                                                                      have  a  universal  name  or  lab  announced  Thursday  market.q
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