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PEOPLE & ARTS Monday 24 SepteMber 2018

In Milan, colors pop at Versace, MSGM, Etro

By COLLEEN BARRY ___ but with overlays indicat- smock dress with a Victori- on a strapless sheath dress
Associated Press NIKKI MINAJ VINTAGE VER- ing turbulence and forced an-era flair. More modern can just as easily represent
MILAN (AP) — Fashion may SACE journeys. Marras said he cues came in the form of a California sunset as an
seem a respite for the cares Nikki Minaj held court in the was inspired by the story of a loose sweatshirt cape Asian sunrise.
of the world, but often it is Versace front row, patiently an Ethiopian princess who with leopard and reptile The looks have a contem-
actually an expression of porary edge that comes
them. through in the silhouette, in
Designers in Milan this week particular a pagoda-tiered
are finding ways to express dress with a surfer’s wetsuit
their concerns about the bodice trimmed in ruffles.
global affairs through their Relaxed patchwork denim
collections, in some cases looks with knitwear jackets
purposely providing an es- and bikini tops played nice-
cape but in others using ly against floral kimono tops
textiles and seams to stitch with matching trousers.
together a story. Etro is one of the rare fash-
Milan Fashion Week on Fri- ion houses to showcase
day held its third day of swimwear, in this case
previews for next spring modeled by real-life surf-
and summer with shows ers Victoria Vergara and
by Antonio Marras, Etro, Maribel Kouke who carried
MSGM and Versace. their boards. Accessories
___ included myriad shell jew-
FREE-SPIRITED VERSACE elry, marking a comeback
Donatella Versace is all for the puka shell with luxury
about emphasizing the pearl and gold accents.
power of women and she The family-run Etro brand is
does it on and off the run- marking its 50th year with
way. For this season’s show, an exhibit opening Satur-
she assembled this genera- day at Milan’s MUDEC mu-
tion’s top models to tell her seum.
story but remembered also ___
those who blazed the trail. A model wears a creation as part of the MSGM women’s 2019 Spring-Summer collection, unveiled MSGM’S COLOR-BURST
Gigi and Bella Hadid, Kaia during the Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 21, 2018. DREAMS
Gerber, Kendall Jenner Associated Press MSGM creator Massimo
and Irina Shayk headlined posing for photos as mod- was forced under Italian accents, and a drop-waist Giorgetti said his latest col-
fast-paced show the show, els made their final prepa- rule into exile with her chil- dress with a black hoody or-burst of a collection was
and Versace allowed a rations back stage. dren on an island near Sar- T-shirt over a leopard skirt, inspired by dreams.
significant pause before Minaj wore a plunging dinia. held together by sheer For next spring and sum-
sending out the final mod- black leather Versace cor- “I think fashion can tell black lace. mer, the designer turned
el: 1990s supermodel Sha- set and a long gathered what is happening in the Marras added drama to away from lace-trimmed
lom Harlow. The looks the skirt in a bold primary color world. We are bombarded the collection with enor- sweatshirts that were an
models sported gave a print for the fashion outing. every day by images that mous, sculptural mosquito- early inspiration and fo-
sense of fearlessness. The The look was accessorized are very strong. My work is netting hats. cused on dresses.
collection was free-spirit- with a plaid tam o’ shan- to transfer the sensations I ___ “It is really like a new kind of
ed and youthful, featuring ter bonnet and matching have inside onto textiles,” ETRO’S PACIFIC ZEN attitude, and new kind of
skin-tight silhouettes of the scarf, acid green gloves he said. The Etro woman is seeking femininity,” Massimo Gior-
finest transparent printed and a chunky Versace Marras said the work start- Zen somewhere in the Pa- getti said backstage.
tulle that lent itself to color- chain. “It felt very Italy to ed with a simple men’s cific between California, Pretty florals pop on long
ful layering. A bohemian- me,” she said. “I love the shirt, which he completely Hawaii and Japan. In Ve- flowing dresses, tight leg-
Gypsy vibe was created colors. It made me feel re- redefined, cutting long ronica Etro’s mind’s eye, ging outfits with matching
by floral silk head-scarfs, ally happy. I always love holes in the sleeves that the destination is a fantas- sheer jackets and blur into
embroidered hosiery and colors, but this is very Ver- he trimmed with big ruffles, tical Paisley island, recall- a matching denim print.
the clashing patterns and sace, I feel. Very vintage. “ adding shreds and cutting- ing the brand’s trademark Giorgetti breaks down the
layering. A dark net overlay ___ room castaways of khaki, print. colors into wrap dresses
easily takes the dress from ANTONIO MARRAS’ JOUR- reptile and leopard print to Etro said the collection ex- in blocks of orange, pink
day to night. NEY INTO EXILE the bodice. plores the fluidity between black and tan. Some are
Power suits featured geo- Designer Antonio Marras The workmanship is evident the active West Coast life- mini, showing off ankle
metric checks and stripes, stitched a story into his gar- in the details. Ruffles and style of surf and skateboard cowboy boots with clear
while leather looks had ments for next spring and scraps are stitched meticu- and the more meditative PVC panels.
a tough-girl edge with a summer. It is a tale of exile, lously together to create a Asian martial arts disci- The collection closed with
painted faux-python slit skirt of military demands inter- collage of stripes, checks plines. a series of dreamy tie-dyes
and shiny cropped leather rupting a tranquil life. and neutrals on a mini- “We melted these refer- worn with painted feather
jacket. Versace’s heritage Marras mixed masculine wrap skirt-jacket combo. ences together to get this mini dresses, and layered
came out most strongly in textiles, like camouflage Chiffon leopard prints are collection that I call Pacific with hoodies.
body-hugging matte leath- and denim, with feminine ruffled and pieced togeth- Zen,” Etro said backstage. His overriding message
er ensembles, and a se- laces, crochet work and er to create frothy details The colors are bright but was upbeat: “Sognare in-
ries of trademark evening animal prints. The garments on the shoulders. sophisticated, taken from sieme,” or “Dream togeth-
dresses in satin with golden are a patchwork, none with Delicate crochet work kimono silks. A dreamy pat- er,” emblazoned in Italian
accents. a clearly defined silhouette was sewn into panels on a tern of the sun on the water on the back of a jacket.q