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A30    PEOPLE & ARTS
                 Wednesday 5 april 2017
              Feast for the soul: Jim Harrison on wine and food




                                         ANN LEVIN                    station wagon.” Fully ex-    sion  of  Iraq,  which  left   your heart.
                                          Associated Press            pecting to be criticized,  him seething.                  Consider this: “A several-
                                         In  2004,  Jim  Harrison     he offered a defense at  “Maybe the rage comes            hour  walk  in  the  forest
                                         wrote  an  article  for  The   the outset. “My response  from  the  fact  that  our    heals more wounds than
                                         New  Yorker  about  a        ...  is  that  none  of  us  12  body politic ... has been   any doctor of my expe-
                                         37-course  lunch  he  ate    disciples of gourmandise  fed by Chef Bush a fresh        rience.”  ‘’Many  people
                                         in France “that likely cost   wanted  a  new  Volvo.  skunk hacked up with an          think  a  Ferrari  is  beauti-
                                         as much as a new Volvo       We  wanted  only  lunch  ax ...” he writes in 2003’s      ful but it isn’t if you com-
                                                                      and  since  lunch  lasted  “Eat  or  Die.”  Later  that   pare it to a horse.” ‘’We
                                         This  cover  image  released   approximately  11  hours  year,  in  “Paris  Rebel-     all need to eat well in or-
                                         by Grove Press shows, “A Re-  we saved money by not  lion,”  he  wonders,  “Has        der to dig the graves of
                                         ally Big Lunch: Meditations on
                                         Food and Life from the Roving   having to buy dinner.”    my  country  become  a       stockbrokers.”
                                         Gourmand,” by Jim Harrison.  Absurd?  Yes,  but  also  pack  of  wild  hogs  bent      And just in case you won-
                                                     Associated Press  funny and true and typi-    on eating the world?”        dered, he has no regrets
                                                                      cal  of  Harrison,  whose  Faced  with  such  dispir-     about  that  37-course
                                                                      dry wit and mordant in-      iting  questions,  Harri-    meal.
                                                                      sight are on glorious dis-   son  inevitably  turns  to   “No question looms larg-
                                                                      play  in  this  new  collec-  food,  wine  and  poetry    er  on  a  daily  basis  for
                                                                      tion  of  essays  published  — and also hunting, fish-    many of us than ‘What’s
                                                                      a  year  after  his  death.  ing, dogs, birds and the     for  lunch?’  and,  when
                                                                      Harrison,  a  prolific  poet  great outdoors.             that has been resolved,
                                                                      and novelist best known  Nearly  every  piece,  ex-       ‘What’s    for   dinner?’
                                                                      for “Legends of the Fall,”  cept perhaps the recipe       There have been mutter-
                                                                      died of a heart attack at  for bear posole, first pub-    ings that the whole food
                                                                      age 78.                      lished  in  “The  Montana    thing has gone too far in
                                                                      While  nominally  about  Writers’ Cookbook,” has          America, but I think not.
                                                                      wine  and  food  —  his  a  saying  wise  enough          Good  food  is  a  benign
                                                                      friend Mario Batali wrote  to  carry  in  your  wallet.   weapon      against    the
                                                                      the introduction — what  Some  will  flat  out  break     sodden way we live.”q
                                                                      distinguishes  the  essays
                                                                      are  Harrison’s  poetic
                                                                      sensibility,   metaphysi-
                                                                      cal  musings  and  moral
                                                                      outrage  at  the  state  of
                                                                      our nation. Several were
                                                                      written around the inva-
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