Page 32 - AT

A32 FEATURE
Thursday 14 March 2019
Tourists turn polo players for a day in Argentina

By LUIS ANDRES HENAO with a whoosh.
Associated Press "I play golf and I play tennis
CAPILLA DEL SENOR, Ar- and I like to swing rackets. I
gentina (AP) — Riding a think this is kind of similar in a
polo horse on Argentina's way," Hulsey said. "Though
Pampas grasslands, Martin (adding) riding a horse to
Folan swings a mallet in a the equation makes it a
wide arc and hits the ball little bit different, more fun."
with a loud clink, slotting The sport is sometimes re-
it between two posts to ferred to as field hockey
cheers of "Goal!" on horseback. But Nacho
Not bad for his first time on Figueras, the Argentine
a horse. polo star, says it's more
Polo has traditionally been like playing golf during an
an exclusive, glamorous earthquake.
sport reserved for the rich During the lesson, Buton ex-
elite. But in Argentina, plained that a game usu-
home to the world's top ally consists of six 7-minute
polo players, tourists can periods called chukkas. The
ride horses, learn from the tourists took turns ringing a
pros how to hit the high-im- bell signaling the end of a
pact plastic ball and even chukka while they watched
play a match on a real field In this Sep. 27, 2018 photo, Stephane Buton, a polo instructor from France, foreground, takes a club players battle it out at
for less than $200 a day. photo of tourists at La Carona club, Capilla del Senor, Buenos Aires province, Argentina. a breathtaking pace in a
'It was my first time on a Associated Press practice game.
horse and they're quite "It's very strange because
intimidating honestly for tina Polo Day is based at transportation, wine and a Buton was teaching a I always thought that polo
a man standing on the La Carona Club about an traditional Argentine bar- group from Britain, Russia, was for the very rich, the
ground. But it was fabulous hour's drive north of the beque. Iceland and United States aristocrats," said Alina Gor-
to be trotting around," Fo- country's capital. Its found- Other clubs offer similar how to hit the ball with the lino from St. Petersburg,
lan said as he gripped the er, Ruben Jabib, said the polo day services, but for mallet. Nearby, a group Russia. "I thought even
reins atop his horse. idea came to him when the most part, the "sport of of ponies neighed and to come to Argentina, it
"I never thought I would he owned a restaurant just kings" is often played by the splashed in a pond, cool- would be impossible to see
have done this at the be- blocks from the Palermo super-wealthy at upscale ing off after a game. polo because you'd have
ginning of the day," the polo grounds in Buenos villas and resorts. "Is this different for the Eng- to be a member of a club.
Londoner added. Aires and he would often "What we did was to make lish because they drive So for me, it's very pleasant
Polo is believed to be one meet tourists interested in polo informal," Jabib said. their horses on the left," Jon to be able to see it, and
of the oldest team sports, the sport. "Before this, people need- MacLeod, 74, from Seattle, it's another pleasure to be
dating as far back as 600 He used two outdoor fields ed a groom, a horse and Washington, joked, caus- able to play."
B.C. in Persia. It then spread and built an indoor field stables. Here, I provide ing the group to break into During lunch, Jabib, the
throughout Asia and later so tourists with no previous them with everything — laughter. club owner, joked that his
reached Britain through experience can play year- helmets, boots, horses — His brother-in law, Jed club is so informal that while
India. But Argentina, with round under all weather and they're ready to play." Hulsey, 62, from Newport British polo clubs might own
its wide plains and its rich conditions. The polo day On a recent day, French Beach, California, swung pedigreed Russell terriers,
culture of horseback riding package also includes polo instructor Stephane the mallet like a pendulum he takes pride in a pack of
among the Argentine cow- friendly mutts who wait be-
boys known as gauchos, neath the table for tourists
has gone on to dominate to throw them a bone.
professional polo globally. "If you want to learn polo,
"Polo is played in the coun- you have to come to Ar-
tryside a lot and in a much gentina. It's much more
more informal way," said accessible, it's much more
Juan Pablo Alessandrini, grass-roots polo," said
spokesman for Argentina's James Margetson, 22, from
Polo Association. "Kids start London, who came to the
riding horses at a very early club on a six-month intern-
age and they get to know ship. He helps take care of
polo. That's a huge advan- horses in exchange for polo
tage over other countries." lessons.
There are about 3,000 reg- "The problem with polo in
istered polo players na- England is that it can be
tionwide, and many more very niche. It can be very
informal ones. The Argen- hard to get into the right
tine Polo Open Champi- clubs, and it's very expen-
onship held annually in the sive," he said. "In Argentina,
Palermo neighborhood of you can be a cowboy, with
Buenos Aires usually sells four, five horses and rock
out the 14,000 seats at the up and play a polo game."
stadium that is revered by After lunch, the group put
many players as the cathe- In this Sep. 27, 2018 photo, Martin Folan of London hits the ball during a polo practice at La Carona on knee pads and head
club, Capilla del Senor, Buenos Aires province, Argentina.
dral of world polo. Associated Press protection and got ready
The tourist-oriented Argen- to saddle a horse.q