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A32    FEATURE
                Wednesday 29 august 2018
            Quebec City's enticing tableau beyond the wall




            By CALVIN WOODWARD                                                                                                  ers  on  the  Plains  of  Abra-
            QUEBEC  CITY  (AP)  —  It's                                                                                         ham.  On  the  plains,  free
            what's  inside  the  historic                                                                                       and    ticketed   concerts
            wall  of  Quebec  City  that                                                                                        roll  through  the  summer,
            makes  people  want  to                                                                                             including  an  11-day  fes-
            visit. It's what's outside that                                                                                     tival  in  July  that  is  one  of
            makes people want to stay.                                                                                          Canada's  largest  outdoor
            To  visit  without  venturing                                                                                       music  events.  It's  a  neigh-
            outside  the  17th  century                                                                                         borhood  distinguished  by
            fortification  is  to  miss  the                                                                                    galleries, bookstores, urban
            outdoor  concerts,  vistas                                                                                          terraces  for  pub-crawling
            and  history  of  the  hilltop                                                                                      and  streetlamps  decorat-
            Plains  of  Abraham,  the                                                                                           ed  with  reproduced  works
            up-and-coming      Limoilou                                                                                         from the art museum.
            neighborhood         where                                                                                          Getting there: A 20-minute
            young chefs ply their trade                                                                                         walk  from  Chateau  Fron-
            and  acrobats  learn  their                                                                                         tenac,  the  towering  land-
            craft,  or  the  buzz  of  Saint-                                                                                   mark  of  the  walled  city.
            Roch district just outside Old                                                                                      When: Year-round, with the
            Quebec.  On  the  outskirts,                                                                                        concert  season  geared  to
            higher-than-Niagara  Mont-                                                                                          summer.
            morency  Falls  roar  from  a                                                                                       ___
            cliff where zip liners screech                                                                                      OLD  PORT  and  the  PROM-
            across the canyon.                                                                                                  ENADE  SAMUEL-DE-CHAM-
            It's  a  diverse  tableau  of   In this June 28, 2018 photo, Lily Henry-Austin, 15, of Silver Spring, Md., soars across the expanse in   PLAIN
            communities,      architec-  front of Montmorency Falls on the outskirts of Quebec City.                            The  promenade  is  a  river-
            ture, public markets, muse-                                                                        Associated Press  front  section  of  a  bicycle
            ums  and  nature,  much  of                                                                                         and  walking  path  that  ex-
            it  accessible  by  foot  from  as  a  world  heritage  site  ,  If You Can."          climbers  scale  cliffs  fram-  tends  nearly  30  miles  or
            Old  Quebec  and  all  of  it  hailed  by  the  United  Na-  There's  plenty  to  absorb  ing  the  waterfall.  Getting  50  km  from  the  Quebec
            stitched  together  by  the  tions  organization  as  "a  in  Old  Quebec  but  there  there: A bicycle ride of just  city Bridges on the west to
            city's  extensive  network  remarkable  example  of  a  are also inviting places be-   over  8  miles  or  13  km,  al-  Montmorency Falls. It takes
            of  bicycle  trails  or  a  quick  fortified colonial town, and  yond.  "If you're staying for  most all on dedicated bike  in  stunning  views  of  the
            drive.                       unique north of Mexico."     three  days,  basically  you  paths; 20 minutes by car; or  waterfront  and  cliffs,  the
            Bargains  in  accommoda-     The  heritage  site  encom-  would  have  gone  through  by  bus.  When:  Park  is  ac-  sprawling  Old  Port  farm-
            tions are another draw: On  passes  the  walled  Upper  Old  Quebec  and  its  next  cessible year-round.  Cable  ers  market,  and  grain  silos
            a  visit  at  the  height  of  the  Town,  overlooked  by  the  neighborhoods,  like  Lower  car  is  year-round  except  that  are  transformed  at
            summer  tourism  season,  I  commanding  Fairmont  Le  Town  and  the  Old  Port,"  Jan. 7-25 and March 9-April  night  into  light  sculptures
            stayed  at  Hotel  Royal  Wil-  Chateau  Frontenac  Hotel,  says Paule Bergeron, an ex-  14. The zip line for this sea-  with  colors  of  the  aurora
            liam,  an  old,  comfortable  and  Lower  Town,  where  ecutive  with  Quebec  City  son ends Oct. 8, reopens in  borealis. How to get there:
            hotel in the Saint-Roch dis-  the  explorer  Samuel  de  and  region  tourism.    "Then  spring.                    Right  outside  Lower  Town.
            trict,  for  barely  $75  USD.  Champlain put ashore with  you have the chance to go  ___                           When:  Year-round,  bicy-
            Royal William and the more  a  few  dozen  men  in  1608.  visit other neighborhoods."  THE  MONTCALM  ARTS  DIS-   cling  as  deep  into  winter
            upscale  Hotel  Pur  nearby  Today,  the  Place  Royale  A sampling:                   TRICT                        as you can stand the cold.
            are an engaging 15-minute  district  in  Lower  Town  re-  MONTMORENCY FALLS           Quebec  and  international  The Old Port market is open
            walk to Old Quebec along  mains so French in charac-      This beehive of outdoor ac-  art are the draw at Musée  each  day  year-round  but
            shops, cobblestoned alleys  ter  and  appearance  that  tivity  gets  the  adrenaline  national  des  beaux-arts  expected  to  close  in  the
            and restaurants.             its courtyard and 17th cen-  going one way or another.  du  Québec  in  this  high-    spring  to  make  way  for  a
            The capital of New France  tury  church,  Notre-Dame-     Try the zigzag staircase with  elevation   neighborhood,  new market in the Limoilou
            until  its  conquest  by  the  des-Victoires,  stood  in  for  487  steps  up  the  cliff,  or  named for the French gen-  district.  A  smaller  farmers
            British in 1759, Old Quebec  France  in  Steven  Spiel-   take  the  cable  car.  At  83  eral  whose  forces  were  market  will  take  its  place
            is  recognized  by  UNESCO  berg's 2002 film, "Catch Me  meters — 30 meters higher  overcome by British invad-      near Place Royale.q
                                                                      (though far narrower) than
                                                                      Niagara  Falls  —  Montmo-
                                                                      rency  offers  a  suspension
                                                                      footbridge  over  the  falls,
                                                                      via feratta climbing and a
                                                                      dual zip line that is riveting
                                                                      to watch and another level
                                                                      of  excitement  to  do.  The
                                                                      zip  line  comes  with  a  bo-
                                                                      nus: Download a free app
                                                                      on the site and you'll come
                                                                      away  with  a  panoramic
                                                                      and  close-up  video  mash-
                                                                      up of you sweeping in front
                                                                      of the crest of the falls, very,
                                                                      very far up.
            In this June 23, 2018 photo, performers entertain a crowd in an   In winter, frozen spray forms   In this June 7, 2016 photo, motorists pass by street art under el-
            open-air concert on the Plains of Abraham during Quebec's na-  Sugar Loaf, a huge cone of   evated road in Quebec City, part of a neighborhood transfor-
            tional holiday weekend.                                                                mation meant to beautify utilitarian stretch of the city.
                                                     Associated Press  ice at the foot of the falls,                                        Associated Press
                                                                      all illuminated at night. Ice
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