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PEOPLE & ARTS Friday 28 September 2018
Margiela touts genderless fashion in Paris with new campaign

By THOMAS ADAMSON to show both in one go),
PARIS (AP) — Maison yet others see it more soci-
Margiela went co-ed in etally, given that the West
Wednesday's installment of is increasingly in awareness
Paris Fashion Week, as de- of the fluidity of gender.
signer John Galliano brave- In the Margiela film, narra-
ly championed gender dif- tives by six women echoed
ference in a powerful new around the Grand Palais
runway show. show venue, including by
It's an important issue ev- model Hanne Gaby Odiele
erywhere, but particularly who publicly came out
in the image-driven global as an intersex woman last
fashion industry which has year.
intentionally blurred the In the film, Odiele explains
definition of and bound- her struggle with "charac-
aries between men's and teristics that don't really (fit)
women's clothes in recent the definition of female or
years to produce gender- male" ... "a lot of people live
less designs. with it alone and in secrecy,
Courreges' new designer and feel very ashamed."
unveiled her debut collec- "The first thing you hear
tion, and Dries Van Noten when you're born — 'It's a
delivered a visual ode to Models wear creations for the Courreges Spring/Summer 2019 ready to wear fashion collection girl' or 'It's a boy' ... this is my
flowers. presented in Paris, Wednesday, Sept. 26, 2018. mutiny," Odiele continued.
Here are some highlights Associated Press Odiele modeled in the
of the spring-summer 2019 show, walking proudly
shows: deconstruction by designer a lace dress bonded with gender. down the runway in a dou-
MARGIELA SHOW GOES Galliano's talented scissors. sheer georgette to evoke Margiela is one of the first ble-breasted satin suit to
CO-ED A bow on a party dress in swimwear. houses to confront and cheers and applause.
It was a bold statement salmon floral satin jacquard It was what the tongue-in- explore the thinking be- COURREGES DEBUT
against what Margiela stylishly hung off a gray cheek house dubbed "ap- hind this industry-wide ap- It was the debut collec-
called "binary stigmatiza- menswear jacket. propriating the inappropri- proach, which has crept tion for Yolanda Zobel, a
tion" of women's and men's A sparkling gold cape ate." into many of Paris' major media-shy French-German
styles. dress, modelled on a shag- GALLIANO LAUNCHES GEN- catwalk shows almost un- designer whose appoint-
It made for a creative cat- gy haired man, had inci- DER AWARENESS-THEMES explained, including Ken- ment at Courreges was an-
walk show trumpeting gen- sions and a weight that In the guise of Margiela's zo, Givenchy, Saint Laurent nounced in February.
derless fashion and fea- evoked a men's coat. new "Mutiny" perfume and Vivienne Westwood. Though Zobel previously
tured unisex wardrobe sta- While the gender-bending launch, guests at the Some attribute the decision worked "behind the scenes"
ples, such as "the overcoat, was the dominant theme, Wednesday morning show to merge male and female at Jil Sander and Acne Stu-
the caban, the cape." other plainly-fun references were educated with a designs to financial pres- dios — little is known of her
They were snipped away to were sneaked in — such as powerful short film about sures (given it's less costly previous work.q

Review: Loretta Lynn's vocals and feisty spirit still strong

By KRISTIN M. HALL focused on her physical For."
Associated Press health. "Ruby's Stool" sounds like a
Loretta Lynn, "Wouldn't It Be The collection of Lynn- companion to her classic
Great" (Sony Legacy) penned songs stays true to "Fist City," as Lynn's feisty
Loretta Lynn, now 86, hasn't the country music icon's fa- side comes out in a bar-
been touring since she suf- vored subject matters, from room dispute with another
fered a stroke in 2017, but love, heartaches, drunk woman. "Wouldn't It Be
the Kentucky singer-song- husbands and angry wom- Great" is a sorrowful plea to
writer's creative output re- en, but also family and spiri- her late husband Doolittle
mains strong on her new al- tuality. to give up drinking for the
bum, "Wouldn't It Be Great." Half new songs and half sake of their relationship
For years, Lynn has been re- previously recorded, her and contains little gems of
cording her extensive cata- high Appalachian vocals simple and personal writ-
log of songs with produc- are unmistakably clear and ing, such as "love went to
ing help from John Carter refreshing with simple blue- waste when my sexy lace
Cash and her daughter, grass and acoustic instru- couldn't turn your face."
Patsy Lynn Russell, ensuring mentation that highlights On "Ain't No Time to Go,"
that her legacy as one of the lyric and storytelling Lynn tenderly sings with
America's greatest song- behind her nearly 60-year just a soft banjo plucking
writers and singers will con- career. in the background to "stay
tinue for the next genera- For a woman who has out- with me a little bit longer."
tion even as she's had to lived her husband, as well It feels like a promise to her
slow down her public ap- This cover image released by Legacy Recordings shows as some of her children, her fans that she's got much
pearances. Recorded be- "Wouldn't It Be Great," a release by Loretta Lynn. loneliness and pain is heart- more to say if they keep
fore her stroke, the album Associated Press breaking on a song like "I'm listening.q
was delayed a year as she Dying for Someone to Live