Page 65 - Sorrow of the Earth: Buffalo Bill, Sitting Bull and the Tragedy of Show Business
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boat-cum-counting-house.  But  inside,  there’s  another  whole  city,  with  its

                 street  lamps,  its  leafy  groves,  its  strange  campaniles  with  coloured  onion
                 domes  like  Russian  churches  and  folklore  kremlins;  its  brass  bands,  its
                 refreshment  stands,  its  gently  curving  roofs,  its  pointed  towers,  its  little
                 painted houses, redolent of Prague and its castle, as much as of Italy, India or
                 China. Because here, we’re any old where. Crowds in boater hats stream past
                 beneath  plaster  gargoyles,  comic-book  monsters,  in  a  bargain-basement
                 Venice.  There’s  a  mix  of  canals,  fake  castles,  elephants  with  their  African

                 mahouts and their American flags. People squirt water, slither, slink, yell and
                 punch  each  other.  And  then,  at  night,  Luna  Park  sparkles,  millions  of  little
                 Tinker Bells settle on the roofs, the displays, the bridges, and along imaginary
                 washing  lines,  like  tiny  stars  fallen  from  the  sky.  And  the  sky  is  now  less
                 brilliant than the Earth. And the Earth has become the Moon, that old whatsit

                 which used to make us dream, with the kind old face Plutarch talks about, its
                 melancholy and its solitude.
                     But on the Moon in Luna Park, everything is spires, minarets and jollity.
                 It’s  a  break  from  the  office  and  the  factory  floor.  People  jostle  amiably,
                 pleasantly bemused, and their eyes are turned towards the solitary heights of
                 the towers, each of which strives to be the tallest. The days of Indians, bison,
                 and  all  those  cross-stitch  panoramas  of  the  Wild  West  are  over.  Audiences

                 want something different now. That’s what audiences are like. You have to
                 keep inventing stuff for them. They want a show that’s never been performed,
                 a wild spectacle that doesn’t yet exist. They want life itself. All of it. This is
                 doubtless why Elmer Dundy keeps adding towers to Luna Park; it has to reach
                 ever higher, shine ever brighter, and make one helluva racket!
                     But  in  the  morning,  when  the  sun  comes  up,  the  tat  is  obvious  and  the

                 vulgarity is plain to see. The make-up has melted off. From his pilot’s cabin,
                 Elmer looks out at his sleeping forest, and he thinks back to the very first time
                 he saw the Wild West Show. He feels a sort of nostalgia and something close
                 to remorse. Spectacle, he says to himself, is definitely not what it used to be.
                     Finally, it’s opening time. He looks down at the unseeing, indolent crowds
                 as they enter his fiefdom. Master of Time and Solitude, Elmer has installed a
                 small skylight in the narrow staircase that leads to human thought. And all he

                 asks is that they glance through it, just for a moment, and take a look at his
                 city of light, his paper angels, and that they believe—yes, that they make out
                 they believe, just for a second—that it could be real. Elmer, like Buffalo Bill
                 in  the  past,  knows  perfectly  well  that  you  let  yourself  be  taken  in—you
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