Page 64 - The Pocket Guide to Equine Knots

of the rope and the top of the loop, pulling it tight (step 3). Start with a good-sized loop,
perhaps a foot in diameter, because by the time you tighten the knot, pulling on the loop and

on each side of the picket line, the loop will shrink considerably in size (step 4).

Picket line loop, step 4.

Dutchman
To create what’s called a Dutchman, a device that gives mechanical advantage for

tightening the highline, tie one of these picket line loops several feet from the tree, put the
end of the highline through the ring on the tree-saver or cinch, then bring it back through the
picket line loop. You’ve now created a block and tackle with a 2:1 mechanical advantage
when you pull back toward the tree. Again, tie a slipped half hitch with another doubled half

hitch on top of it.
Of course, there’s a question of whether a highline needs to be violin-string-tight. I don’t
think so. It’s more important that it be high enough that the horses stay under it. I space the
tie loops about six feet apart, and I make sure each horse is tied short enough that it can’t

encircle a neighbor and twist their lead ropes together. Also, remember to tie them with
some sort of swivel in the lead. Obviously, you should never tie a saddled animal to a
highline. A saddle horn caught on the highline could create a major wreck.
Invariably the highline will tend to loosen during your stay, and the Dutchman system

described makes it easy to tighten it periodically. Animals can get testy with each other on
highlines. Tying a dominant horse to one of the end loops decreases his chance to disrupt
the others, and in some cases, you may have to leave an empty space between the bully
and the next animal. I occasionally hobble a horse on the highline to discourage excessive

pawing and the damage to the ground it causes.

Dutchman for tightening highline, shown here with steel picket line loop, but works as well with picket line knot.