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Figure 100- Loading the Tandem Prusik Belay. “SLIP” is a handy mnemonic to remember the
sequence of loading the locking carabiner, which stands for Spine (carabiner), Long Prusik against
spine, Itty-Bitty (short) Prusik and then Prusik-Minding Pulley.

Carabiner Retrace Technique
During a “hot” change-over from a lowering to a raising operation, the introduction of the
pulley into the Tandem Prusik Belay can be achieved without compromising the belay or
without opening a loaded carabiner in an unsafe manner. This is achieved through a
“carabiner retrace” procedure. To introduce the pulley, another locking carabiner is first
rigged parallel and identical to the original carabiner connecting the Tandem Prusiks to
the release hitch (Figure 102.1). The pulley is attached to the belay line behind the
Tandem Prusiks and attached to the new carabiner (Figure 102.2). The new carabiner
is now locked and becomes the primary connector. The original locking carabiner is
removed from the rigging and the Tandem Prusik Belay has the pulley rigged for a raise
(Figure 102.3). This task requires proper adherence to the procedure described
and having the Safety Officer directly monitor the Belayer is an excellent practice
for cross-checking.

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